4g61t.org

I'm going to stuff a 4g63t and awd auto my 1980 colt. I was wondering if anybody on here knows the weight difference between solid axle and independent. I have a 2g auto donor car so its obviously a lot easier to use that than hunt around for a rear end with 3.3 rstio I would rather not use a ford 8.8 cause that's wayyy too heavy. This car will never see more than 350 hp. I read somewhere that the ford 8.8 is 175 lbs I bet the dsm rear is over 200.

That weight for the Ford 8.8 is likely just the live axle itself and not everything else that is necessary to hang it under the car, I've rebuilt a 8.8 and swung it under a fox body 'Stang, they are not light.

Do the DSM rear end, or an EVO setup if you have a wallet and big cahones. Leave the Solid axle setup for track only cars.

The guy that bought my old colt is doin a solid rear swap. He says he wishes he went with the dsm rear.

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1993 single turbo supra
2000 Lexus sc300
2016 ram 1500

I appreciate the opinions but the car I'm building is unorthodox to say the least. I'm going for light weight. I will weigh the entire subframe myself to decide to use it or not. I was thinking something like an old rwd Celica rear end. I am sure they are a really wimpy rear end. They do not come in a 3.3 however. My 2g auto rear will not have an LSD either. I don't really think I will need an LSD anyways. My goal is 11.5 with the least hp I can get away with. I can fab my own tubular subframe to save a pile of weight most likely. But I still think a 4 link solid axle with a wimpy light rear end would be lightest

Only guys who might know would be a guy like catapult who swapped a solid axle and weighed before and after. I know the 8.8 is 175 lbs. awd dsms have always been 300 lbs heavier than fwd ones. T case is 20 lbs driveshaft about 50. I would guess the awd rear with subframe etc is at least 300 lbs

I don't see it being much lighter by the time you have to rework everything in the rear end to make it safe. Also your going to have to consider what sort of link set up you want to run. I owned the cataplt car for a bit... I really dont see it being lighter...

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49 International KB-2
72 Dodge Colt
73 Dodge Colt (Project)
84 GMC K3500
85 Dodge D50 Diesel Swap
90 Mighty Max V6
89 Mirage Turbo
94 Mighty Max
99 Montero

Are you dead set on awd? 11.50s is quite capable with fwd

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1993 single turbo supra
2000 Lexus sc300
2016 ram 1500

I spent enough time deciding what platform to go with. I have a 92 engine and a f5m33. Even has an LSD in it. But don't you think it would be wayyyy cooler if it had the stock crappy steel wheels ( not slicks). I've been wanting to do auto for awhile I realize awd auto is going to be about 350 lbs heavier than 5 speed fwd. I'm still going to dig a bit to try to find the weight of a solid axle similar strength to stock dsm stuff. I think solid would be lighter. When i got this awd auto donor car that made the decision that much easier.

The floor pan and chassis bracing is entirely different between the AWD and FWD 1g DSMs. Not to mention the transmission, crossmembers and so forth. I can pick up an entire rear subframe with 4 bolt rear differential, axles, hubs, brakes and yada yada yada; it is NOT 300+ pounds. It takes me and my father (300+ lb tractor mechanic) to lift a Ford 8.8, and even at that it isn't fun.

If you want to be unorthodox, then why do something that someone else has done? Ford live-axles under DSMs/CSMs is old news. Do something better, and LIGHTER. Use a 240sx rear subframe; for real cheap you can replace every control arm on the thing with tubular heim-jointed pieces. Or even better yet, fabricate your own rear subframe or differential mount and tubular control arms.

If you really want light and AWD, neither the DSM nor Ford rear setups are what you are after.

Those are not the only differences. The floor pans and bracing of the chassis' are different between the AWD and FWD 1g DSMs; this is why you CANNOT AWD swap a FWD 1g DSM without lots of welding. Also, the front crossmembers are entirely different(AWD is far heavier) and the AWD transmission weighs a significant amount more than the FWD equivalent amongst other small differences.

It takes me and my 300+ lb tractor mechanic father both to lift a Ford 8.8 off the ground and it isn't easy, even with him. Lifting a complete rear assembly is easily accomplished with any of my skinny-ass friends. I promise you that 175lb for a complete 8.8 Ford live axle is not correct.

If you want to be unorthodox then why even think about using a Ford live axle? Too many DSMs and CSMs have already done it for it to really be "unorthodox". If you want light weight and different use a 240sx rear assembly. For cheap you can outfit the entire thing in tubular heim-jointed control arms. The same goes for Miata rear ends. Or go nuts with a welder and fabricate your own rear subframe and tubular control arms.

If you want light weight you can do far better than a f&*%ing live axle or 1g rear end.

or go with the lightweight allum ford housings... I have a 8.8 in my yard I was gonna use.. and yes it is heavier than shit... only reason im not gonna use it cause I would have to rebuild it completely to meet requirements for nhra rules... (c clip elimination..weld the axle tubes..and buy stronger gears).. so im just gonna get a light ford 9".. no matter which way you choose u still have to make brackets and mounting points..

it all depends on power range you are shooting for.

in my opinion from working on both types of rearends.. it would be easier to mount the ford..(also u dont have to worry about tearing a boot or breaking a cv axle) using there stock but upgraded upper and lower bars like the stang guys use.. plus at this point when u make the mounting bracket for the shock/strut.. u can make it taller to make the ride heigth as u want it.

just my .02

Steve

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Steve 89 colt 2.3 stroker stock top end. evo3@20 psi 13.489@99.30mph 3/10 2012
On drag radials.auto trans.launching @ 5 psi and no traction thru 2nd.

There are some bad-ass aluminum IRS Dana units in Jeeps and other Dodges too. But they are still god-damned heavy.

my car would be done by now if i was using a dsm rear

at least once its done i shouldn't have to worry about breaking my rear end in any way shape or form

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1990 Colt AWD 8.8

I was only using the ford 8.8 as a reference. I always planned on using something much wimpier. I know independent is always heavier than solid comparing apples to apples. I don't know what a dsm rear is but my guess. It's 6.5 inch maybe?

I got the rear out of the 2g. It is definately over 200 lbs. I have to struggle to lift it an inch off the ground and I can lift a 4g63 long block and set it in the trunk of my car. And the 2g rear looks like a nightmare to install. I don't know if ill ever use it