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PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2013 8:13 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 15, 2013 5:16 pm
Posts: 23
Location: Cape Coral fl
ok guys i have picked up my 1991 1.5l 4 door mirage and my plan was to just drive it for a while and then swap all the rear sub-frame in, I have since decided that i think it would be a better idea if i swap the 4g63 in to the car first so i have everything there to make sure the rear is sitting right and everything lines up.

i am going to go ahead and make my front and rear mounts for the awd swap so when i am ready it will already be done.
the couple questions that i have is that i would like to keep the car an automatic.

first is there anything special that i need to know about swapping the 4g63 auto in to the car? (mostly about the auto trans)

second question is has anyone tried to use the Bulfab.com one piece cross member from a dsm in there csm? instead of building the mount for the front? (http://www.bulfab.com/bf-1pc-crossmember.html) maybe i will need to be shortened? just an idea.

next question, can i get some thoughts on what people think is better when doing the rear sub-frame? 1)cutting the strut towers and lowering them. 2) making spacers to go on top of the strut 3)making spacers to go on the bottom of the strut?

i am sure there is some more questions but that is all i can think of for now, i have bee doing a lot of looking around and readings a lot of the build threads. but i find that maybe some of the threads have some spots where they are forgotten about and maybe not updated.
been trying to find good threads of builds on 4 door cars. can anyone suggest any good build threads???

thanks in advanced!


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2013 8:31 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 03, 2001 7:00 pm
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Location: SoCal and Wisconsin
The strut towers need to be cut and rewelded on an angle to be done the right way, but I've been using the plates to extend the strut for at least 7 years with no issues.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2013 9:30 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 04, 2006 1:21 pm
Posts: 2131
Location: Tucson Az
the only issue I had with the auto was the lip on the frame rail hit the end cover on the trans... it needs to be either 1; cut out and put a weld bead to seal it back up... or 2; cut slits in it and bend it over with a large sledge..

Image


I know this pic is of a 5 speed.. but the area im talking about bending is straight up..bend from where the brake line is forward. u can see about how much needs to be bent.. the trans will still be close but wont rub under hard throttle.. if you dont do this it will bang it every time u take off from a stop..


hope this helps.


Steve

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Steve 89 colt 2.3 stroker stock top end. evo3@20 psi 13.489@99.30mph 3/10 2012
On drag radials.auto trans.launching @ 5 psi and no traction thru 2nd.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2013 10:50 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 1:08 am
Posts: 1475
Location: Cleveland
That mod helps a lot getting 5 speeds in and out as well.

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95 Mirage AWD - "HoboEvo" 1008 awhp 9.5@165
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2013 11:18 pm 
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Location: Tucson Az
yeah small car big motor... something has to be tight lol...


kinda like Tommy Boy.. big guy in a little jacket.

Steve

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Steve 89 colt 2.3 stroker stock top end. evo3@20 psi 13.489@99.30mph 3/10 2012
On drag radials.auto trans.launching @ 5 psi and no traction thru 2nd.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 10, 2013 7:04 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 15, 2013 5:16 pm
Posts: 23
Location: Cape Coral fl
Thanks guys I will deff. Keep all of this in mind when I do the swap!


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 7:01 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 15, 2013 5:16 pm
Posts: 23
Location: Cape Coral fl
question?
when doing the awd swap a friend told me that if i was to buy coli-overs with the mirage top hats that i should not have to worry about building the 2inch spacers or lowering the strut tower. has anyone ever done this?

plan on getting BC coilovers and I think I can order them any way that i want as far as strut length and top hats are considered.

thanks


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 10, 2013 9:41 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2001 7:00 pm
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Location: Perris California
Its really the angle of the tophat VS the strut mount. It's angled differently when the awd subframe is in.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 10, 2013 10:40 am 
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Joined: Sat May 14, 2005 11:15 pm
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Location: Stantonsburg, NC
After looking at all of the AWD swaps, personally I would change the angle on the upper mounting points. Look on Youtube and search for Jafromobile. He has a great video showing how he did his. It looks like a lot of work but worth it if you plan to keep the car and want it done right.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
98 Mitsubishi Mirage DE Coupe 1.5/auto


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 10, 2013 4:27 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 04, 2006 3:03 pm
Posts: 1134
Location: Calgary, AB, Canada
Reworking the rear strut towers on a hatch would be easier than a sedan. It's a lot of work to do that on either car, IMO.

This was pretty easy and has worked fine so far, (touch wood). But this only addresses one of the angles that are not correct. The bottom strut mount point is more inboard on an AWD car.
Image

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