4g61t.org

1g rear is definately a lot easier to install in x vehicle than a 2g and its most likely lighter too I am bolting this rear back up under the car I'm not using it. Ill grab one from a 1g if the solid axle doesn't work out

I've been thinking of doing a ford 9 swap

If your going ford, and 8.8 would be plenty strong and eats up less power...

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49 International KB-2
72 Dodge Colt
73 Dodge Colt (Project)
84 GMC K3500
85 Dodge D50 Diesel Swap
90 Mighty Max V6
89 Mirage Turbo
94 Mighty Max
99 Montero

Agreed.

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92 Colt GL 4g63t + AWD swap
00 Mirage LS

your car will end up looking something like this:

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1990 Colt AWD 8.8

looking at this last pic..and the pics of your rearend mounted also spoolin.. with adding the cross member for the front part of the 4 link. why cant you just use the stock ford mounting points? they make some good adjustable replacements for the stangs.. no welding on the rearend itself.. just fab up the mounting points for the front section.. I am gonna try it this way when I get to mine.. but it seems easier.. cost about the same (with buying the new adjustable parts compared to 4 link).. less welding.. and no need for a aftermarket panhard bar.


Steve

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Steve 89 colt 2.3 stroker stock top end. evo3@20 psi 13.489@99.30mph 3/10 2012
On drag radials.auto trans.launching @ 5 psi and no traction thru 2nd.

I agree that should work just fine. We don't really need all the benefits of a 4link. I have an issue with mine where the bracket moved while welding and the bars bind when I move the rear. I may end up cutting it out and going with a more basic control arm setup. I have another rear laying around.

has anyone actually figured out the weight of a 1G rear crossmember+rear end??

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Current
95 Mirage AWD - "HoboEvo" 1008 awhp 9.5@165
08 535ix 420awhp
06 C6 Z06- 600whp NA

Sick! I just cut up a 1g to hoard the parts and i am in the early planning stages for awd swap 93 colt. I am still undecided which is better. But i have some good info here. Just pumped i can answer boostfreaks question.

Complete rear 92 3 bolt 203 lbs
Sway bar assy 10 lbs
Pumpkin with axles still attached 66 lbs

T case 25 lbs
Driveshaft 35 lbs
91 fwd f5m33. 95 lbs
92 awd w5m33. 115 lbs
80 lbs difference total
280 lbs (+ ? Mustache bar)
Oops! Forgot to add in the mustache bar! I dont even know what it weighs i didnt pull it from the car!
Probably another 10 lbs
I dont know what the complete irs would weigh in a 93 colt but i would guess it doesnt weigh much. Only way to know is to remove it but i wont be doing thst anytime soon

Something i need to repeat
NO FORD 8.8
so never compare that to a dsm rear weight cause your comparing aples to oranges. Ford 8.8 rear can handle a hell of a lot more tq than a dsm rear. I still dont know how big the dsm ring gear is but its muuuuch smaller. The whole pumpkin doesnt measure 8.8(sarcasm)

You gotta remember in awd application it only is taking half the power.

I still have not weighed a old toyota rear myself but after exhaustive googling someone out there says 130 lbs.
Of course with all the 4 link kit youd be around 160 and youd have a really difficult and expensive journey to get the rear an lsd and gears to match the front. I know a toyota van rear would be perfect and 3.90 is common gearing and a supra lsd bolts in. Then id just have to use an evo tranny or front diff. Definately not worth the effort

Now i just have to finish taking apart this rear im curious what the subframe itself weighs

Pretty safe to say a guy can swap awd for under 200 lbs weight gain if you are thinking that way building it.

Subframe is 40 lbs
Hubs/brakes/main trailing arm is 55 lbs
Not a lot of weight to saved by lightening the subframe. But if i was to eliminate the subframe that could shave off 30 pounds compared to the last swap. Last time the two heavy tubes i used to hold the subframe would almost be as heavy as a tubular subframe welded directly to the framerails I wonder how much vibration and noise there would be though.

I know reengineering this stuff is a bad idea. Its just informational purposes only.
The math doesnt quite add up i am not sure which numbers are wrong. But i would guess the lighter numbers are more accurate
I would think
40 subframe
55 hub
55 hub
66 pumpkin+ axles
10 stabilizer
10? Mustache bar
236ish. Somewhere in 220-240 for sure
The reason i dont trust have an exact weight is because i measured the 127 pound rear minus pumpkin/axles/stabilizer bar holding it while standing on a bathroom scale. Everything else was light enough i could double check with my fish scale. I doubt my bathroom scale is accurate at all with heavy weights like that

120 lb toyota axle ftw!

I popped the cover off and its 6.5 inch ring gear. Basically any rear will be strong enough for 1/2 of 400 hp. I dont think they get much smaller than that

I still hope to make my car run someday w/ that 8.8 setup posted above lol

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1990 Colt AWD 8.8

Whoring out my vids and updating threads. In can be done on a budget with minimal fabrication skills.
http://youtu.be/rCcC1p8YxQ8
http://youtu.be/obRwxPyAZ34