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Guys i know this not apply to everyone that has done the awd swap but whats the average inches i need to remove for the 1G driveshaft install on a hatch.I ask because im at that stage and will be on it this week.

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95' Talon Tsi AWD- 11.7@118
DSM vs Sti: http://youtu.be/0rBoxKxQvNQ
89' Mirage AWD swapped- 11.5@128 stock frame turbo
1989 Mirage Turbo AWD 11.5 @ 127: http://youtu.be/AhtJuKT-c5U

You are going to have to measure for this one as even small differences can create problems. Simply measure the length of your driveshaft then measure the distance from the forward portion of the transfer-case's tail-section dust shield and subtract the two values.

Thanks a lot Shaun,That idea is fantastic.Getting on it tomorrow

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95' Talon Tsi AWD- 11.7@118
DSM vs Sti: http://youtu.be/0rBoxKxQvNQ
89' Mirage AWD swapped- 11.5@128 stock frame turbo
1989 Mirage Turbo AWD 11.5 @ 127: http://youtu.be/AhtJuKT-c5U

Shaun another question,What part is the preferable to cut the Transfer side or the differential side?

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95' Talon Tsi AWD- 11.7@118
DSM vs Sti: http://youtu.be/0rBoxKxQvNQ
89' Mirage AWD swapped- 11.5@128 stock frame turbo
1989 Mirage Turbo AWD 11.5 @ 127: http://youtu.be/AhtJuKT-c5U

It is my opinion that it is best to cut the portion of the shaft behind the carier bearing, closer to the rear differential.

if you cut the side closer to the rear diff make sure the driveshaft angle is not to steep going into the rear diff. it will lead to constant u joint failure

I had the front shortened. Worked out perfectly. Lmk if you want pics.

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89 Original Turbo Colt Gt AWD PTE 6262 Built 9:1, TRE stage 2. 10.93@129
05 Evolution VIII FP Green, garage queen.
97 Eclipse Gsx 80k miles, 6 Bolt, HX-35
08 Ford F-350 6.4 PSD 3 mods and 600hp

I ended up cutting the front part too and haven't had a problem

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95' Talon Tsi AWD- 11.7@118
DSM vs Sti: http://youtu.be/0rBoxKxQvNQ
89' Mirage AWD swapped- 11.5@128 stock frame turbo
1989 Mirage Turbo AWD 11.5 @ 127: http://youtu.be/AhtJuKT-c5U

I cut from the front too.

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"A good day racing is better than a great day fishing!"

Do not cut the back, you will not be able to mount the rear carrier bearing if you do. Stick with the front shaft.

The rear carrier bearing can be eliminated if the rear portion is elongated.

Are you talking about combining the 2 rear shafts? Cause that wouldn't work either, critical velocity and u-joint angle problems (you could probably get the angles worked out but not the C V). If anyone wants a 2 piece shaft that will work, one off an awd expo/summit is perfect. That is what I'm switching to from the dsm shaft. It's about twice the diameter but half the weight with only one carrier bearing.

Sure, it may not be perfect but it worked and still does, as far as I know, on the black AWD GT I owned.

I prefer cutting the front, because the floor of the car seems perfectly set up for the bearings to mount that way, and the you don't have to re-invent the driveshaft. Anytime you lengthen a driveshaft section, you should also increase the diameter of the tube to retain strength, and the ability to maintain integrity at high RPM.

Here's a shot of the guys shaft who tried to go one piece:

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"A good day racing is better than a great day fishing!"

2 peice ^^^^ and that was at 70mph roughly. Not fun.