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PostPosted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 2:21 pm 
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Some call me a god

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 5:50 pm
Posts: 1219
Location: Htown, TX
I'm in the process of trying to get an estimate on having my driveshaft converted to a 2 piece instead of the stock 3 piece. I just got off the phone with a shop that does driveshaft work about 2 and 1/2 hours from me and they need some info so I figured I'd ask the guys who already had them done.

They are concerned about the tubing size, thickness and how it is welded from the factory. Does anyone have any of this information by chance? When you had your driveshaft worked on did they say it was more difficult then their normal jobs? I'm just trying to figure out whether it's worth a trip to drop it off and have them look at it.

Also what do you guys consider a good price for a job like this? I'm basically just going to have the front 2 pieces put into 1 and eliminate a carrier bearing and u-joint and have new u-joints put in the front and back.

Thanks for any help guys!


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 8:31 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 04, 2010 8:12 am
Posts: 27
check out dsmdizzle's write up on here there is some descent info .


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 6:02 pm 
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Some call me a god

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 5:50 pm
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Location: Htown, TX
Well I had a custom shaft made. It lasted 30 miles before it spit itself out while I got on the interstate. Not happy at all about that, the front u-joint I had the shop replace failed.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 6:40 pm 
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Some call me a god
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Location: Tonawanda, NY
Well that totally sucks. Are you and your car allright?


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 8:07 pm 
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Some call me a god

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Location: Htown, TX
Quote:
Well that totally sucks. Are you and your car allright?
I'm fine, the car is not so fine. It demolished my exhaust I just built, cut a fuel line, dented the underside and ripped one of my mounting points for the carrier bearing off. So needless to say I'm calling the shop tomorrow and letting them know about this situation and finding out what they're going to do about it. :evil:


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 9:46 pm 
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Location: Tonawanda, NY
Give 'em hell. It sounds like you are lucky you weren't injured. Can you tell why the u-joint failed? Did it just break, or did they leave clips out or something?

Here's the number for the transfer case repair kit: MR470072
It comes with a factory OEM u-joint, an assortment of various thickness retaining clips, and the slip yoke that goes into the transfer case.

I hope this all works out ok for you.

I had the front section of my three piece shaft shortened at the local dump truck repair shop, and they said they weren't able to balance it because of it's size. They said it wouldn't matter much because their equipment will get it accuratly straight within fifty thousanths of an inch. I was a little miffed about that, and I had to balance it on my lift by trial and error. It was way out of whack.
After reading this, that dump truck place doesn't seem so bad. I did swap out the cheap front u-joint that I specifically asked them not to use, with one from the Mitsu recall kit. I asked them to order the spicers, but in their infinite wisdom they went with neapco to save me some time and money. It was the middle of winter anyway so I would have been happy to wait for the spicers.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2010 10:06 pm 
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Some call me a god

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 5:50 pm
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Location: Htown, TX
Here are a couple videos of the damage and driveshaft. WARNING- I'm sort of mumbling and they aren't the greatest quality.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mr_pbHppJo4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXUCe5SnyZo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nlp2mlVNZWM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SDeCK_gL7oI


Thanks for the part number, you wouldn't have the part numbers for some stock or spicer u-joints? I've tried finding them on JNZ but had no luck. I'm very hesitant to have them build me another shaft, hell I'm almost scared to drive this car anymore! I really think I'll need to file a law suit to get my damages paid for... But I'm hoping for the best.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 6:26 am 
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Location: Tonawanda, NY
Dude, I spotted the problem in the first video. That shaft is too long and skinny for the RPM and torque that it has to handle. It had no chance. It probably started to bow out to the side, and when it started hitting things, massive carnage took place.

I'm not sure about any other part numbers, but I do know the same u-joint went into some GEOs. As far as the OEM one, it's cheaper to buy three recall kits than three u-joints from Mitsubishi. You can get the kits for $33.41 from this place http://www.mitsubishipartswarehouse.com ... eid=214581 but the u-joints are about twice that. This is a great site BTW, it's a dealer in Florida, and with wholesale pricing and online ordering, you don't have to worry about some douche screwing up your order. I bought a door striker and some injector insulators from them to test them out. They're legit.

If you go with a two piece again, you're going to need a large diameter aluminum front section.

Ps. The driveshaft builder really should have known better.
Image
Here's a good read about driveshaft selection: http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/frequen ... l#faq_id37

Here's an exerpt from that: "Length is a big factor in the proper selection of driveshaft tube diameter. The long wheelbase cars cannot use a 3 inch driveshaft due to length, rpm and critical speed issues but a short wheelbase car can use a 3 inch or a 3.5 inch if the space allows. Driveshaft critical speed is not a problem with shorter overall lengths."

Oh yeah, sorry I didn't read this thread earlier. I could have saved you some hardship.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 10:15 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 5:50 pm
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Location: Htown, TX
So the guy basically built me a driveshaft he knew wouldn't last at all? Wow.. I guess I'll be getting my money back and a new driveshaft someway or another. :o


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 1:23 pm 
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Location: Tonawanda, NY
Yeah basically. That's why the older steel driveshafts on longer vehicles are fatter in the center. Our tires aren't that tall, the final drive gear ratio is near 4.50:1 and our cars are capable of 150 MPH. I'm not going to sit here and do the math, but that driveshaft is spinning well over the speed of the crankshaft when you put it in fifth.

Our driveshafts are really freakin long too compared to a RWD car where the driveshaft starts behind the driver.

Frankly you're really lucky.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 3:02 pm 
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Some call me a god

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 5:50 pm
Posts: 1219
Location: Htown, TX
I called the driveshaft shop and he said he'd build me another one, at my cost. Ya, not happening so I'll be filing a suit and let him know he can either settle with me now or pay for all my damages and costs after court. I now remember why I try to do EVERYTHING myself. :evil:


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2010 10:26 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 20, 2008 4:29 pm
Posts: 1157
Location: Wenonah new jersey
his claim will be that the car is not supposed to be rear wheel drive and that it is something you did wrong. ill put $5 on it

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1993 single turbo supra
2000 Lexus sc300
2016 ram 1500


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2010 11:10 pm 
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Some call me a god

Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 5:50 pm
Posts: 1219
Location: Htown, TX
Quote:
his claim will be that the car is not supposed to be rear wheel drive and that it is something you did wrong. ill put $5 on it
That's ok, he can claim all he wants. Fact of the matter is he built an in-adequate driveshaft and knew the application. On top of the fact that my damage to the car confirms how the driveshaft failed and that I had put over 1500 miles on the stock driveshaft with no problems.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 12:15 pm 
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Some call me a god

Joined: Thu Nov 20, 2008 4:29 pm
Posts: 1157
Location: Wenonah new jersey
oh i agree. im on your side 100%. but you know how businesses are. The customer is never right.

_________________
_____________________
1993 single turbo supra
2000 Lexus sc300
2016 ram 1500


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 9:01 am 
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CSM Junkie

Joined: Wed Jan 30, 2008 7:55 pm
Posts: 447
Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
That's crazy you did "the right thing" and it went wrong bigtime. On my colt i just took the stock driveshaft and cut and rewelded it myself. I've had it up to 120 mph or so and it doesn't shake or anything. I give it periodic inspections to make sure its not falling off. Totally the wrong way to do things but it doesn't look like such a bad idea now huh. I actually took my shaft to 2 different shops to get them to shorten it but they said they could shorten it but not balance it because they can only do 2 piece shafts. The 3 piece shaft is a new thing to them. I would always try to keep a 3 piece shaft. There is a reason mitsu did it that way


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