Dude, I spotted the problem in the first video. That shaft is too long and skinny for the RPM and torque that it has to handle. It had no chance. It probably started to bow out to the side, and when it started hitting things, massive carnage took place.
I'm not sure about any other part numbers, but I do know the same u-joint went into some GEOs. As far as the OEM one, it's cheaper to buy three recall kits than three u-joints from Mitsubishi. You can get the kits for $33.41 from this place http://www.mitsubishipartswarehouse.com ... eid=214581
but the u-joints are about twice that. This is a great site BTW, it's a dealer in Florida, and with wholesale pricing and online ordering, you don't have to worry about some douche screwing up your order. I bought a door striker and some injector insulators from them to test them out. They're legit.
If you go with a two piece again, you're going to need a large diameter aluminum front section.
Ps. The driveshaft builder really should have known better.
Here's a good read about driveshaft selection: http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/frequen ... l#faq_id37
Here's an exerpt from that: "Length is a big factor in the proper selection of driveshaft tube diameter. The long wheelbase cars cannot use a 3 inch driveshaft due to length, rpm and critical speed issues but a short wheelbase car can use a 3 inch or a 3.5 inch if the space allows. Driveshaft critical speed is not a problem with shorter overall lengths."
Oh yeah, sorry I didn't read this thread earlier. I could have saved you some hardship.