4g61t.org

I am trying to make my awd swap as easy as possible. Me and a friend were talking and we brought up the driveshaft. If i was able to eliminate the carrier bearings by running a 1 piece drive shaft then thats less work for me and the sooner my car will be spinning 4 lol. I was thinking of taking a dsm shaft cutting the yoke and rear u joint off and having a local buisness build me one. Is there any reason why I couldnt do this? Thanks.

_________________
89 Original Turbo Colt Gt AWD PTE 6262 Built 9:1, TRE stage 2. 10.93@129
05 Evolution VIII FP Green, garage queen.
97 Eclipse Gsx 80k miles, 6 Bolt, HX-35
08 Ford F-350 6.4 PSD 3 mods and 600hp

I am in no way a professional driveshaft builder, but as I understand it you would need to increase the diameter of the driveshaft signifigantly to maintian the same tourque capability of the three piece.
The longer you make it, the fatter it has to be.

thats what she said.


sorry i have nothing to contribute to the conversation.

because of the movement of the rear end.. and the engine/trans.. u have to have at least a 2 piece shaft with 1 carrier bearing.. most people use the front shaft and carrier.. then have the back half 1 piece.


Steve

_________________
Steve 89 colt 2.3 stroker stock top end. evo3@20 psi 13.489@99.30mph 3/10 2012
On drag radials.auto trans.launching @ 5 psi and no traction thru 2nd.

Here's a quote from the FAQ's on the Denny's driveshaft site:

"Exhaust System Clearance
I recently had a 3 inch exhaust system installed on my car and now I do not have much clearance for the driveshaft. What is the smallest diameter driveshaft that I can use that will handle the horsepower and weight of my vehicle?

This is a common and growing problem that we hear about more often than we ever did before. You should always have the driveshaft built before the exhaust system to avoid all of these problems. The high horsepower cars and trucks that need a 3 inch exhaust system also need a strong driveshaft. Unfortunately the tunnel does not always allow for the proper size driveshaft and the 3 inch pipes to all fit into the same space. Some high horsepower cars can use a 3 inch diameter driveshaft with no problems but others may require a 3.5 inch or a 4 inch and now it won't fit with the large diameter pipes. Length is a big factor in the proper selection of driveshaft tube diameter. The long wheelbase cars cannot use a 3 inch driveshaft due to length, rpm and critical speed issues but a short wheelbase car can use a 3 inch or a 3.5 inch if the space allows. Driveshaft critical speed is not a problem with shorter overall lengths. The advice here is to be sure that your exhaust system installer makes room for the 3.5 inch diameter as a minimal choice for a driveshaft tube diameter. Some of you with long wheelbase vehicles may in fact need a 4 inch driveshaft... so be sure to let the installer know what you may need before he begins the work. Better yet...get the new driveshaft first!"


I highlighted the part that confirms the basic theory of my previous post.


I just had the front piece of my DSM driveshaft shortened a few inches. It was cheap, and it maintains the strength and RPM capabilities of a DSM shaft.

I also tried a one piece driveshaft and dont do it unless it is huge. I think mine was 2.5'' and was vibrating when I was gearing the car down into second, it was welded straight. Also never did try any hard launches or acceleration with it. I tried the one piece for ground clearance when I lowered the car, ended up raising the tunnel and using both carrier bearings.

_________________
- Works in da bush

Thanks a bunch fellas you answered my question. Don't be surprised if you see more questions from me.

_________________
89 Original Turbo Colt Gt AWD PTE 6262 Built 9:1, TRE stage 2. 10.93@129
05 Evolution VIII FP Green, garage queen.
97 Eclipse Gsx 80k miles, 6 Bolt, HX-35
08 Ford F-350 6.4 PSD 3 mods and 600hp

If you are swapping in a 1G DSM rear, there should be no movement since the carrier is mounted to the chassis direct. If you run a 1 piece, you need to make sure you set your driveshaft angle.... The transfer case tailshaft and pinion should be parallel, but not on the same plane. If they line up exactly it'll wear a groove into the U joint since the bearings are not rotating. Improper alignment could account for Colt200s vibration.

Yes, the angles really do affect the drive line vibrations too. I think when I had my one piece installed they were withing 2* of eachother and the transfercase was a bit higher than the diff. I still say the best bet is to do a 2 piece because it is one step easier than a 3 piece, but 3 is better in my mind. Once everything is completed, you can shim the bearings with washers to get the angles better.

There is lots of info out there about driveshaft size/u-joint angles out there...

_________________
- Works in da bush