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I don't know if anybody has done this before, Why would be a commonly asked question. It would be nice to put my car on a dyno, but alas, there is no 4wd dyno here is saskatoon. Then i had an epiphone- lock the center diff, and modify my driveshaft to have some sort of disengagement device on it. I googled driveshaft disconnect and there is a product out there that does exactly this for towing behind rv's.http://www.remcotowing.com/node/7

You could just weld the center diff or use some sort of viscous coupling eliminator and remove the driveshaft when you want to go to the dyno.

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91 GSX - 511fwhp and 352 lb/ft 25psi 110 octane, 7.68 @ 95.9mph 1/8th 21psi 91 octane, 11.93 @ 112.9mph, 117.7mph best trap speed, 20psi 91 octane
98 Volvo S70 T5 - DD

http://www.facebook.com/captaintonus

that is most likely what i will end up doing, but on the fly switchable would be way better if i had a locked center diff i would be using fwd 90 percent of the time.

Um, I sold a JDM switchable transmission last year. Why not use one of those?

Harder to find and weaker from what I remember reading, not sure if the strength is an issue but I think it might be over 300 hp.

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- Works in da bush

They are weaker, and they are hard to find. They came in 2 different final-drive ratios, so you have to find the one that has the proper ratio for a US rear-end. With that said, in a lighter chassis, I bet they would hold up a bit better.

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91 GSX - 511fwhp and 352 lb/ft 25psi 110 octane, 7.68 @ 95.9mph 1/8th 21psi 91 octane, 11.93 @ 112.9mph, 117.7mph best trap speed, 20psi 91 octane
98 Volvo S70 T5 - DD

http://www.facebook.com/captaintonus

This idea would allow you to shift from 2wd to 4wd while driving. The jdm switchable doesn't do that.

You have to come to a stop to switch the jdm tranny? I was under the impression that you could do it on the fly because the front and rear ratios would be the same, therefore both sets of gears would be spinning at the same rate

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- Works in da bush

No, the car has to be stopped and jacked up in the air. You have to take out a bolt on the end of the transmission, move a lever, put the bolt back in. You have to do the same thing on the transfer case as well.

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91 GSX - 511fwhp and 352 lb/ft 25psi 110 octane, 7.68 @ 95.9mph 1/8th 21psi 91 octane, 11.93 @ 112.9mph, 117.7mph best trap speed, 20psi 91 octane
98 Volvo S70 T5 - DD

http://www.facebook.com/captaintonus

Well thats a huge p.i.t.a. then.

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- Works in da bush

Road side swap or for dyno purposes, not so bad when you consider the alternative.

"The coupling has a control cable attached to it which extends to a location under the driver's seat. This control cable is pulled out to disengage for towing and pushed in to engage for driving the car."

Sounds like you don't even need to get out of the car.

What is the point in having all wheel drive if most of the time you are going to be driving it with the rear diff disabled? Even if you can enable/disable on the fly or in the car why bother? I have driven my AWD swapped colt with a welded center diff a bunch and the only time the welded diff is even detectable is in the tightest of turns usually when trying to park. I consider it a fair trade for the amazing grip the car can generate. Dont bother with a dyno or disconnect the driveshaft using a welded center diff on dyno day.

YAY!!! I've been stressing about what my car is going to feel like with a spool in my center differential, so this is really good to hear.

Don't hesitate to do it. But like I said tight turns will be eliminated; the car just won't do it. But always having one of the front wheels constantly locked to the back wheels is amazing. I will say that Autocrossing is difficult sometimes with the super tight turns but you can really put your foot into the throttle on corner exit and to correct the car.