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PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 1:31 pm 
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CSM Junkie

Joined: Wed Aug 28, 2002 11:57 am
Posts: 750
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Back when I first saw John Reimer's write-up, he showed that he removed the spot welds on the rear frame rails and that they were then easily removed before cutting to make the rear "box". I tried this, and got the welds out. Still tight. Took a cold chisel and went to work. Too much for me! So, my question is: Did you guys remove the rail supports or just cut out the whole thing? That is where I am headed, but I wanted to check. Here is a shot of the rail with support:
Image
Then I removed the welds and tried the chisel on one end.
Image
So, the support did NOT come off. I assume that I should just cut the whole thing off. It appears that that was what Colt 200 did.

Second issue: Red Sleeper attached the front mount Bar (is that a 2" box"?) to the bottom of the tow hook bracket. I prefer to do the same. Colt 200 seems to have made separate plates for mounting the cross bar. With John's method, an accurate position is already set. However, it appears that the bar extends about an inch below the toe hook edge. I want to use a 1 1/2" box (1/8" thick) but to place the whole thing within the tow hook plate confines (no overhang). Is there any real way to determine the proper height for the front cross bar? (My motor is out of the car.)
Thanks for your write-ups, thanks for advice. Bill

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 6:14 pm 
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Some call me a god

Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 8:01 pm
Posts: 1108
Location: Sask. Canada
Yeah, I tried the drilling and chisel method, only worked for part of it for me. I had to cut the one bolt out that holds the mounts to the rear axle piece, I broke one 3/8'' ratchet and one 1/2'' drive ratchet trying to get both bolts out. I ended up cutting only the inner part of the support out, the outer part was not in the way, so it stayed for me. Here is what it looks like with the axle in place.
Driver side:
Image

Passenger side:
Image

I did make some plates that were a bit longer than the tow hook, I had to do something, my car only came with one tow hook. I hung the motor and tranny in position with the fender mounts, bolted the plates up, blocked up the 2'' square tubing for the front engine mount where I wanted it, then positioned the mount with the rubber where I wanted it to be and went from there. Had to re-drill the point where it bolts to the engine part, I think I used a wrong mount though, but it worked for me.

I have about a hundred pics about my conversion here if you want to look
http://www.putfile.com/colt200/images/24085

And I must say, your car looks pretty clean underneath man, wish we had stuff like that up here.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 7:45 pm 
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CSM Junkie

Joined: Wed Aug 28, 2002 11:57 am
Posts: 750
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Thanks for the info. Yeah, my guru said that we could just hang it to see where we wanted to put the bar and mount, but I wanted to find out if there was a ready measure to go by.
I already went to your site and copied most of your stuff. :lol: Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.
The reason the car is clean is that it is a one-owner from 1989. It has always been garaged at home and at work. :wink:

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2007 11:02 am 
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CSM Junkie

Joined: Wed Aug 28, 2002 11:57 am
Posts: 750
Location: Chesapeake, VA
:oops: Mea culpa! with apologies to LilEvo, I must admit that I had overlooked his dvd on AWD Instalation. He used 1" steel box(prob. 1/8" thick) for the cross bar. He placed it right at the bottom of the tow hook bracket. So, problem solved: I plan to use 1 1/2" x 1/8" steel box with connection right at the botom of the tow hook bracket. This way, when the engine is replaced, it should line up.
I plan to put an extra 1/8" plate over the bracket botom and weld on a U bracket to hold the 39"long cross bar. The cross bar and bracket will be drilled to accomodate hold down/connection bolts. This will allow the bar to be removed for "service" later if necessary. I hope to make a drawing with details to be posted later

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2007 11:53 am 
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Some call me a god

Joined: Sat Feb 21, 2004 9:36 pm
Posts: 1031
Location: Fburg, VA
Bill, if you need to know where to make the mounts at with the motor out the car then bolt in the stock crossmember and mounts and make a jig, that's what I did. Then you can build you new tubular mounts to fit the jig and just drop the motor in.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2007 12:42 pm 
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Moderator

Joined: Sat May 14, 2005 11:15 pm
Posts: 7515
Location: Stantonsburg, NC
It also helps if you have an awd tranny case and an empty 63 block laying around. Thats what I did on the elantra.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2007 2:18 pm 
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CSM Junkie

Joined: Wed Aug 28, 2002 11:57 am
Posts: 750
Location: Chesapeake, VA
:( Spinmasta11 and 89Mirageman suggest: bolt in the stock crossmember and mounts and make a jig
It also helps if you have an awd tranny case and an empty 63 block laying around.
Well, I don't have an old 63 block or tranny case lying around. So tht's out. (By the way, the awd tranny just went off to our friends at TRE (Team Rip), run by an old member, Jon Ripple, for a rebuild. :twisted: )

On the other hand,I can bolt in the old stock crossmember. But I don't know what is meant by making a jig. I don't recall reading about it in the Spinmasta writing either. Can you share some info? Thanks

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2007 2:42 pm 
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Moderator

Joined: Sat May 14, 2005 11:15 pm
Posts: 7515
Location: Stantonsburg, NC
I have a spare block and an awd tranny case. You're welcome to borrow it if you're ever down this way. I remember you saying you drive to Greenville quite a bit for shows.

_________________
93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2007 9:45 pm 
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CSM Junkie

Joined: Wed Aug 28, 2002 11:57 am
Posts: 750
Location: Chesapeake, VA
I'll pass on that. :) But I have another "plan". (uuh ohh) Here it is:
Image

With this set up, I can effectively line up the cross bar in the bay and have it easily removable. When I want to "place" the motor mount, I can hang the motor in. (Should work.???)

On another note, my motor and welding equipment are due for getting in to the shop. :P

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Age is a number; attitude counts.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 11:20 am 
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Some call me a god

Joined: Sat Feb 21, 2004 9:36 pm
Posts: 1031
Location: Fburg, VA
I just welded my brace to the toe hooks, they have 3 bolts a piece in them if I need to remove it.

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1989 Dodge Colt Turbo w/ 4g63t swap
1999 Ford Contour SVT


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2007 1:24 pm 
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CSM Junkie

Joined: Wed Aug 28, 2002 11:57 am
Posts: 750
Location: Chesapeake, VA
:) Yeah. That's basically what I'm doing. The U brace/bracket will be welded to the tow hook. The cross-bar will sit in it and be secured by bolts (1) passing through both sides of the U bracket and cross-bar, and (2) passing through the tow hook and a welded cross-bar end cap.

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Age is a number; attitude counts.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 9:44 pm 
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CSM Junkie

Joined: Wed Aug 28, 2002 11:57 am
Posts: 750
Location: Chesapeake, VA
:-? Another question has come up. A friend of mine is a rather quality welder. He is going over the car and checking the welding that I had when the car was pieced together. He is figuring where it might have weak points and where it can be supported. He is wondering what type of welding was done by others on one of these projects. Such as MIG or TIG or "gas" or whatever. He was explaining that different types of weld had different strengths and appearances. So I'm asking you if you have any info. on the types of welding done on your conversions?

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Age is a number; attitude counts.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 11:32 pm 
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Some call me a god

Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 8:01 pm
Posts: 1108
Location: Sask. Canada
I was using a tig welder, only ever welded for about an hour before in my whole life. I learned fairly fast, and beat on everything I did with a hammer to "test" it until I was confident with the welds. I am happy with the way it turned out.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2007 11:22 am 
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The Silent Administrator
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Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 3:32 pm
Posts: 9524
Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
For inspiration you could browse around here:
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/4g61t/burns/
Chris has just recently popped his head back onto the board so maybe a PM will still get his attention.
Another good lead is a seam welding thread over at GalantVR4.org, as it recently got my attention with all the fab work going on over at our site.
Also Larry Parker from the galant site can offer some insight because he has a purpose built with about a million photos of the whole process of which I have catalogued but no link to unfortunately. Just thought I would throw that out there.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2007 1:15 pm 
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CSM Expert
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Joined: Sat Nov 03, 2001 7:00 pm
Posts: 2187
The 1" box steel across the tow hooks has not failed or bent in any way in almost a year of driving. I think 2" box steel is overkill for that particular mounting point.


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