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Sorry to take so long; I was visiting friends in Georgia. Trying to center the rear suspension was not a special "trick",rule, or measurement. I said before that we used 4 plumbs, but actually it was six. The first two were from the identical inboard spots on each side where the rear bumper connects. So the plumb to any same outboard spots, on the same plane, should measure the same. We attached another two from the damper (SHOCKS) attachment studs on the hubs. Attach all the way in so that they are in the same spots on each side. The last two were from a point on the "MOUSTASHE" bar at the point where the mounting stud bushing housings connect at the ends.
We had the rear suspension suspended with two tie down belts and a jack suport. From there it was "just" a problem of getting each set of any two plumbs to be equal while the moustashe bar mounting points were in the desiginated area on the fabricated boxes.. We knew just about where the main support studs were to be located. We dropped the mounting studs into the bushing holes an retained them with finger-tight nuts. We worked the suspension into an alignment, and marked the outline of the stud plates (or flanges) with a felt marker so that when we let the suspension down, we could put the stud flange in place, mark and drill a circle hole (allow some extra) so the flange would fit flatly on the fabricated "box" and WELD that sucker in. From there the rear suspension should all line up equally. Anyway, that's how we did it.
Then, with the "boomerang" bar attached to the diff., we could determine where we wanted the diff. cross support bar to go. We set that bar in place and marked the spot for the "boomerang" bar stud to be located. Took the bar down, drilled through, dropped in a bolt and welded it to the support bar. Then welded the support bar into position on the car.
Finally, we could install the whole suspension by pulling it into position and jacking it up until each set of studs passed through the bushings. Add the nuts, and DONE!