4g61t.org

Hahahah its cool. Yeah that makes sense because a colt's wheelbase is right around 3" shorter than an AWD DSMs.

http://forum.4g61t.org/viewtopic.php?hi ... ft&t=18551

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Adam
93'FD Touring non-seq
05'WRX

OMG! those pics were awesome i thought it was harder than i thought it was. thanks for helping out,lol.

2.625'' shorter for me due to the problem I had.

Went to Edmonton yesterday, dropped off the drive shaft to get shortened. Today I mounted the fuel filter, pump, cell and started tubing the supply and return lines in 1/2'' stainless steel. Going to route them into the firewall in a little spot by the frame, the factory way seems like a p.i.t.a. and comes close to the drive shaft. Still got more to do here...

Also got the front bumper to fit to the fenders, there is less than half of the bolts left that hold the front lip to the bumper. This was the only way to make it fit. Put the factory colt struts and springs in, still sits too high but it is better than the talon front setup. Just need to find lowering springs to use the talon front stuff.

Fuel system
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5279394

Beginning of fuel cell tubing
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5279392

fmic in bumper
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5279389

Tomorrow I want to bring the return line to the fire wall too, then start on the touch screen install.

I am going to have to pull the motor one more time after I mark the rear mounts. When this is out, I can finish the fuel lines install.

G-night for now.

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- Works in da bush

dropped off the drive shaft to get shortened

you have to shortened the drive shaft

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92 Eagle Talon FWD Auto (Drag Car)

looks good joe, especially the fitment of you front bumper.

So, with the rear wheels being that far back, they aren't going to hit the wheel well or fender when compressed?

I love what you did with the stainless tubing, I think you have a calling!

The rear wheels do hit the inner fender parts for now when I am jumping around in the back of the car, but they are oversized rubbers on the rims. I am putting a lower profile tire on to match the front, this should give me 3/8'' more clearance where I need it. Plus I want to screw around with different springs/struts to lift the back end up some, lower the front and hopefully they will meet in the middle somewhere.

As for the tubing, thanks, I am good at it because it is part of my job, I did lots when I started my apprenticeship. You should see the panel we have to install for Husky the next 2 weeks, about 15 pieces of 1/4'' tubing side by side all following each other. Looks nice when done right.
-just hoping my boss doesnt know I am good at it because I hate doing it.

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- Works in da bush

Good call on the tubing, but I still say the rear axle is too far back. It's okay to lengthen the total track of the wheels front to back for weight distribution in drag cars but now your AWD and it sort of defeats the purpose. I would love to see those rear wheels come forward more, they look out of place not centered on the wheel well, front to back. I hate to be a stooge and it sounds like you just got your axle back from the shop. I don't want to be the bad guy here, it's easy to make calls from the sideline when your not paying for something right?
I'm just looking out for ya!

P.S. Never let on that you can do way more than what your boss expects, especially if the pay will never compensate for it!

Thats soem big fuel line!!

looking good.

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Adam
93'FD Touring non-seq
05'WRX

I would love to move it forward almost one inch, but that would take almost two days of work to grind out all the welds, move the mounts forwards, then re-weld everything back in. When I get the proper tire in it, and before I paint the car, I think I am going to trim the back bumper, inner fender parts, and try to extend the back side of the wheel well. Should make it look more normal. As long as nothing is binding or hitting anything I dont really see a major problem other than cosmetics.

-the shop hasnt even started on it yet, they wanted to know the rear diff ratio, transmission ratio in fourth and fifth gear. They said they needed that info to calculate a critical speed vs diameter of the drive shaft. Got to phone them monday and give it to them.

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- Works in da bush

I'd rather take a three weeks of grinding out welds then live with the off-set. Thats just me and I'm anel about things thoe.

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Adam
93'FD Touring non-seq
05'WRX

The hardline plumbing looks nice.

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John
89 Colt GT(2)
88 d50 4g63t, crower 272's, dsmlink

So the shop said the total cost would be $1890.36 canadian . I dont know what they are making it out of but must be good. Too bad I didnt fall for it. They said at 4th gear, 6700 rpm, driveshaft would be almost 6000 rpm, critical speed is just over 5000. Fifth would be damn near 10,000rpm, which is no big deal because it would never get there. But anyways, the place in lloyd (where I live) says they can do it, roughly $300-400.

Some how this critical speed thing is not right, a 15year old car, original drive shaft. It managed to last this long, I am sure its ok.

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- Works in da bush

WTF thats crazy... It cost me $130 USD, and they made it out of new steel. 36 inchs of new steel.

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91 colt beater..