4g61t.org

Also doing a fmic, turbo, and fuel system upgrade too. The car will be painted black when completed.

fmic:
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4165242

Bigger turbo/manifold:
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4165246
-damn thing wont allow me to run the stock rad fan.

Got the diff centered yesterday and all the mounts made, just need to take it all out again to weld two more brackets on the frame rails for the front mounts for the rear diff.

Boomarang rear mount below:
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5220950

Boomarang rear mount above:
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5220949

Fuel cell:
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5220953

Front mount for rear diff:
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5220951
-had to cut the center out to make room for the drive shaft, it might of hit, with everything hanging in the air there was 1/8'' of clearance before.
Decided to go this way instead of cutting the frame rails to make a mounting point. In my mind cutting the frame rails anywhere is not going to make the car stiffer/better. So I am making a steel plate that will get welded onto the side of the rail, with a "box" on it so the mount that I made can be welded to it. This gives more area on the car to take some abuse instead of putting all the stress on one spot where there is no frame.

Well thats it for now, going biking today, more car stuff tomorrow. Hoping for end of tomorrow for it to be on all 4 wheels again so I can at least push the car around.

More links later.
Joe

The strange thing is that I have not been cut yet in this project, its just not normal doing this much work and not bleeding.

_________________
- Works in da bush

Looking good,

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89 mirage #666/1200
89 colt E $2006 GRM

Yet another one in the making

_________________
John
89 Colt GT(2)
88 d50 4g63t, crower 272's, dsmlink

Looks good! Where did you get that fuel cell?

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If I had a dollar for every V8 beaten by a colt I would be a millionaire. But I would still be driving my colt.

Very nice work so far!

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

has anyone tried drilling out the spot welds to pull the floor out of the back? Im not even sure it can be done but it looks like its a big flat sheet thats just spot welded in.

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Clay M.
1989 4G63T Colt GT AWD - 10.2@146

Looks good joe....

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1991 MMC Galant 4G63 N/T AWD
1991 Plymouth Colt 4G15
1989 Dodge Colt 4G61T

Lots of effort, and some good forethought on those welded mount supports. Keep it coming!

Yes, I can be done.. thats what i did. you have to cut as well.

_________________
Geoff
2013 Genesis 5.0 RSPEC
88 Mazda Turbo II- LSX7
89 2.0 Turbo Colt
13 Ducati 1199 Panigale

Plasma cutter and a dream!

_________________
89 mirage #666/1200
89 colt E $2006 GRM

good work. looks pretty clean.. keep us updated..

Instead of messing with the spot welds I just cut the spare tire well out with an angle grinder and then fabricated a piece of sheetmetal to fit with an integrated "shell" for sump of the fuel cell.

_________________
1989 Dodge Colt Turbo w/ 4g63t swap
1999 Ford Contour SVT

Thanks for the comments, I was starting to loose interest in the colt until today, out on the bike and a trans-am running like crap wanted to race. Would of been a easy kill for the colt.

The fuel cell came from a parts store in Edmonton, Alberta call "Mopac auto supply". Summit racing sells them too. This is a similar one, might actually be the same size, its been so long since I bought it.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

This is only the second time that I have welded, first time was on the tranny mount that I made, looked like crap but didnt break with a hammer test. This stuff looks way better, nothing broke yet.

Still have not found out how to weld sheet metal without burning into it??? Anybody got some helpfull ideas? Mig welder is what I am using. Is it even worth trying? I want to remove the fuel tank lid and fill it in so that people can walk around the car and not find anyway to get to the tank.

If anybody wants to know why the boomarang bolts are so long, well the front mount bolts are going to be just as long. My reason is I will be able to adjust where the rear diff sits. Not sure how usefull this may be in the future, but it was a thought.

18hrs makes for a long day, off to bed, more fabrication in the works thismorning when I wake up again in a few hours.

Later
Joe

_________________
- Works in da bush

about the sheetmetal welding.. what i do is turn down the volts and instead of doing a straight bead i do short spot welds along the seam so as not to head it up to much.

I will keep that in mind when I get to do the panels, thanks.

Well all the brackets are done, diff is welded in. One bad thing, its not in the center of the wheel well. Its closer to the back of the car than wanted. Looks really bad in the pics, and doesnt help the tires on it are too big (205/55R16), the ones on the front (205/45R16) will eventually be on the back. If there is any good of this, well, it doesnt rub, and I get a slightly longer wheel base. Not sure what I did in the front with the struts last fall, but they are way too stiff, the front of the car sits a little higher than wanted .

Good side: the garage is clean again, the creeper actually works now with little effort! Amazing what a floor with no rust/gravel does.

too far back ps:
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5236157

too far back ds:
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5236156

under ps:
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5236156

under ds:
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5236163

ps profile:
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5236162

diff input shaft, almost like mitsu designed the exhaust tunnel to house a optional drive shaft
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5236155

And of course I didnt re-measure the drive shaft length now that the diff is in a different spot before I put it back on the ground. Had to give myself something to do tomorrow.

Later
Joe