4g61t.org

Well here are my thoughts (on the hatch AWD)

500hp front wheel drive means you are going to loose to pretty much any car that is anywhere near the same power level. I still was not able to hook up at 80 mph....BFG's stick to the ground so well that the rubber just stays there and leaves the tire. At 80 mph I could leave patchs 100 feet long with ease.

A full wieght DSM with driver and fuel is about 3400lbs. My colt with me in it and fuel was 2525. I am hoping after the AWD swap is done I can have it at 2600 with me and fuel. This is full interior and radio etc. But it will probably be 2700 or so. So basicly it is the lightest DSM/CSM AWD you can have.

As for the front wheel drive car winning. Well if the race started at 100 mph and both cars the same 500+ hp. The front drive is going to win. But since most races start at a 40 roll or so. The front driver would loose most races because of traction.

That is just my opinion on the matter. But I am just tired of running mid 12's at 130mph.....

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89 Colt GT, T4 T61, 2.0L, .
http://videos.streetfire.net/search/...3300fc1b2f.htm
04 SRT-4, 3inch exhaust, Intake, Stage 2 W/toys
87 Conquest TSi, Coilover, huge sways
01 Dodge 2500 4wd cummins (tow rig)
91 Suzuki Samurai (Rock Crawler)

I suppose that would be doable though I did mine very similar to how Reimer and Jason did theirs which is what I would advocate. 1.5" box tubing fits fine parallel in height to the rear bracket on the block or if its above it a little it'll work too. I see you want o bend an 1/8" thick piece of plate steel from the firewall, are you bending 90 degrees from the firewall, then have another piece that is also bent from the block, line the two up and run bolts through them? if that's the case do you think the firewall plate might bend over time if there is no underneath support of the bend?
The guy from CO that did his AWD swap in his hatch ran an L piece from the stock front crossmember bolt holes just like you are thinking about doing. Personally, when I first saw it I thought there was no way that would be that stable. Though I did mine exactly the same way but yet I have a piece of boxtubing running across the toehooks that welds to the bottom of that L-piece for added support. If you have the room you might want to think about doing it similarly cause personally I don't think that L-piece is stable enough.

Also, I noticed with the 8.8 rear install, which I think makes things very simple btw, props on that, but when the car will be at normal ride height will those struts be perpendicular to the ground? I'm having a hard time vizualizing your suspension geomtry is all. I assume they will be since the rear will swing up and to the back on the ladderbars.

Ray and I were going to come down and help, drink beer, and BS. But you aren't answering your phone.

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shearerfab.com

2600lbs

I guess if your talking about street racing then the AWD would probably be an advantage. But getting a 1G AWD to 2700 lbs isnt to hard. Sounds like Honda-tech on here when people are talking about Mid 12s at 130, or when they think they need 550-600 whp to run 10s in a 2200lbs car. Its really all about suspension, tires, and skill at the line. I just built a FWD Turbo Talon (420a) went 10.90s@124 with 440whp and its 3000 lbs with driver. Once you get in the hi 500-600whp a FWD needs progressive boost control but its still easy to get them to hook.

Well if all you want is a straight race car, then yeah, theres a TON of things you can do to hook. So yeah the AWD is for street cars.
And yeah, you can get an AWD DSM to 2700lbs or less, but an AWD Colt can do that with NO significant weight reduction (beyond what is necessary to remove for the swap).

Well I doubt these guys are planning to make some 500-600 whp AWD Colts with solid rear axles and then go dodge some cones with them.

One thing I forgot to mention. I am anal and kinda EMO about my car being a street car. I don't do anything at the track that the car does not do on the street. I have never bolted slicks to the car and have refused to on numerous occations.
I like to run my car on the street the same way it does on the track. I really don't even like bolting the BFG's on the car. So I want the car to run faster then 12.5 in street trim. Also like I said I have full interior and a radio etc. I don't think you could egt a DSM that lite without major mods like carbon fiber panels though-out.

As for the rear suspension. The struts are mounted at the same location they were mounted to on the factory soloid rear axle. So that should not be a problem.

As for the front motor mount...That is still up in the air.

The rear motor mount I started last night, but have not got very far on. It came as a blessing also. I wanted to put the plate on the firewall so I removed the rack, but then noticed the shifter cable hole is directly were I need the plate to be.
I almost gave up on the idea, but then wondered if I could move the shifter cable hole. So I put the heater box in and found you can move the hole a few inches to the passanger side with ease. Also this helps get rid of the real hard right then left hand turns the cable has to make. Also this makes the cable straighten out a bit and effectivly makes it a little longer to reach the trans.
I thought this area was 3 layers of steel, but it is actually 4 layers of steel and I wrapped the plate all the way down to were the factory crossmember bolts to.

I don't know if this is the right way, or the wrong way. I don't think it is really known. Like lilevo said, if it does not work then change it.

As for you guys coming down last night......

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89 Colt GT, T4 T61, 2.0L, .
http://videos.streetfire.net/search/...3300fc1b2f.htm
04 SRT-4, 3inch exhaust, Intake, Stage 2 W/toys
87 Conquest TSi, Coilover, huge sways
01 Dodge 2500 4wd cummins (tow rig)
91 Suzuki Samurai (Rock Crawler)

Mine has a cross member in the front like factory.There are mounting points in a different area next to the transfer case.Just by some steel and make it.Mines 1in. x2.5 in. box tubing

My hatch weighs 2600 gassed up w/o the driver.

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'18 X5
'19 M5 Comp
'07 997 Turbo, 1144WHP/1001WTQ
'17 Fiesta ST

Notch out the boxed crossmember so the shifter cables can still extend
to the tranny. That's what I did.



G-


That's also what Jon Reimer [Dans current car] did when he built his Red
Mirage .

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Geoff
2013 Genesis 5.0 RSPEC
88 Mazda Turbo II- LSX7
89 2.0 Turbo Colt
13 Ducati 1199 Panigale

just a few questions...stay with me on this...

the 5-lug DSM pattern is 5x4.5...5-lug Ford is the same...why not convert to 5-lug? does this axle come in 5-lug configuration?

and what direction does it spin? what I mean is will the mitsu output spin the ford axle in reverse? has this been adressed? am I just rambling?

and if this axle is a bit wider than the CSM, and so is the GVR4 front brakes, will they be close to the same?

what ABOUT the brakes? will one be able to make the ford brakes work? I know fluid is fluid, I am mainly talking about E-brake...this is minor but I am curious...

and enough pissing about wether FWD is better than AWD. thats what the streets are for.

~joe

Im gonna run an AWD tranny in my car but use it in FWD form. Mainly cuz its a stronger tranny. The reason you flip over the rear mount and modify it is because the transfer case hits it? Just wondering if I wont have to make any major mods if Im just using it as a FWD. Im also wondering if the Mirage intermediate shaft is the same or not.

You'll be fine as long as you dont put a tcase on there. It clears the crossmembet

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91 colt beater..

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