4g61t.org

how many of you would be interested.. what i had in mind was contacting full race and letting them know about us colt and mirage owners and see how much it would be for them to make some for us. they sell the ones for the civics at 350 dollars they are the best.

check this thread for info on them.
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=778517&page=1

please lets not start a my mitsu is better than your honda... in this forum there are alot of good people who know their stuff and they are mostly all proffesional drag racers. check the thread out the bars simply put look sick. they allow full tire movement and they work great.

Ed-

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Eddie Rosado

If there turns out to be enough interest on this board, I can get these made for the colts. They would be the same, with identical weld quality to that seen on those parts. The plates would be plasma cnc cut too.

Chris

FyI,

That is not a true traction bar... that is only a control arm stabalizer bar. very miss-leading..sorry to say.

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• 2.0 dohc n/a swap

well i mean maybe you could work something out with geoff at full race. he put alot of thought into this equipment and i dont think that a complete replica would work on our cars i'm sure there would be some math to figure out on our suspensions.

Ed-

but hey if you can figure any of the math out and make them perform just like those from full race then please let us know.

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Eddie Rosado

If anyone on this board can design something like this it Chris he has done a TON of building and improvising on his rally car...

well no problem. name the price. but just be able to offer a product that wont mess up the A arm. and to the guy talkin about its not traction bar n whatever bla bla bla... bro i dont care. and dont be sorry. cuz i dont care. all i kno is that those things stop wheel hop and help out in the quarter. also theese TRACTION BARS from full race allow wheel lock to wheel lock without interference and allow for bigger downpipes and intercooler pipes without disturbing either.

if you can fab something like this up of the same quality. same materials and finishing processes. just name the price my friend. and if it competitive enough with full race's then i'll buy it.

ed-

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Eddie Rosado

wbla bla bl a to you.... I have done rice drag and full framed drag... how does this stop wheel hop?? I mean what down forces are there on the strut, control arm, drive shaft, tire, is there none. A bar connected to a control arm can not / will not stop a control arm assembly from hopping. Sorry Bud.. your barking up the wrong tree, so find another mechanic to bla bla bla to.

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• 2.0 dohc n/a swap

ok so basically i guess theres just no demand for this product here on the colt/mirage comunity huh?? damn that sucks i really wanted to see if i could get one of those bars for my car.

Ed-

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Eddie Rosado

My 240sx comes with these from the factory. They basically provide a more solid location for the control arms. I'd go out on a limb and say that they would do a pretty darn good job of controlling wheel hop on a car with old worn out bushings.

jason has a good point...they do control wheel hop a lot. A lot of JDM companies sell them for the 240sx and they sell subframe connectors that lock out the factory traction bars (its all spherical bearings and cnc bars) and the rear end is more responsive and predictable in racing and drifting events. If someone made them for colts I bet it would help out (more of a torsion control arm style like my old accord and old hondas have)

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ok members so do we want them or no?

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Eddie Rosado

Shouldn't one first replace the original bushings with something better? Less chance of whl hop plus better handling on road courses.

Ok, I edited my response to remove the sarcastic content, but here are the basics as I understand them....

Wheel hop: happens because the suspension "loads up" under accelleration. The loading up causes parts to move, expecially ones mounted with rubber (quite springy) at front and back. At a point the loaded up potential energy of the rubber spring factor (k for you physics freaks) exceeds the force being applied in a vertical direction (calculated from the weight of the car and the front strut spring) then the rubber spring will unload and return the tire to it's unloaded position, all the while accelleration causing it to load up again.

Seems that is very similar in function to the traction bars of a RWD car. In a RWD car, the "spring" loading factor is generall because the rear solid axle is mounted to a spring which is quite flexible and will allow the axle to load up in a rotational direction. At some point, that loaded up rotational energy must be released. The only differenece being that in a RWD car, there is an additional weight transfer happening with a traction bar that is hard to replicate on a FWD car. However, the wheelhop reduction is very similar.

Reducing the travel that the control arm can load up will help reduce the wheel hop. This wont really gain traction, but it will reduce wheel hop, thus allowing the driver or tuner to focus on traction which is a much more known factor. Similarly, traction cannot be increased without first dealing with wheel hop.

Thinking back to my explanation above:
Take a skinny little street tire and light it up. Not much wheel hop because it doesnt have enough traction to load up the bushings. now put a meaty drag slick with the same suspension and it can grab better, thus loading up the bushings and start to hop.

So, yes, I think such a part is warranted if you are getting wheel hop!

Can I make them, of course. My only suggested change will be to tie it into the front motor support so that it has a center support as well as both sides. It will intail removing the tow plates that are on the car now, though when I get into it, I may be able to retain those? when I get a colt later this week I will be able to look at the potential of a cheaper design, but that may not be worth the effort.

What will they cost. Based on the concept in this post I did a very rough estimate without consulting the shops I will use for some parts and am GUESSING they will run between 375 and 400 depending on how many people are in. To be in, I need a $150 deposit that will be transferable after I sell any remaining stock I purchase. Also need a minimum of 5 people interested before I start.

Chris

feel free to email any related questions.....

spoke to geoff he says that he has to see pics of the car from the bottom (up on a lift) and see close detailed pics of the suspension.

i think that he might be able to use the same exact equipment from those kits and be able to just modify them slightly i.e. just the distance between the mounting plates that go in place of the toe hooks.

Ed-

also if you are going to go into building these bars make sure you have the correct geometry so that the A-arms dont distort themselfs during suspension travel. that has been the biggest issue and complaint from all the people that own lower quality traction bars. the ones that full race sells (they claim) dont distort the A-arms i cant say this as a fact because i havnt used theese or kno any one that uses them.

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Eddie Rosado

Looks like a good idea, but I've always called them thrust rods, not traction bars.

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