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 Post subject: Kickers...the results
PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2004 9:41 pm 
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Location: Trois-Rivieres, Qc, Canada
As I said few weeks ago, I'm installing some 8'' Kickers subwoofer in front door

The right door is now finish
This is the result
Image

Image

leave your coments!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2004 10:07 pm 
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Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Sawweeetness. Those little puppies must hit hard. How is your front sound stage with the bass/midrange oriented the way they are. I could fathom making new door panel extensions so I just mount an 8" speaker (generic nothing fancy) from a home theater setup I used to use and bolted it under my passenger side seat. Only problem was the "free" amp I got doesn't turn on. :twisted: oh well,.....
Glad to see that your hard work has paid off.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2004 10:34 pm 
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Location: Jawga
Umm.... if you wanna get real stupid.. mount the 8's in the floor board and fire it up! :twisted:

All you need to do is find a flower pot vase thats 8" in diameter and make a fiberglass mold of that vase. Cut yourself a hole in the floor board and put the mold up and seal it up. Wahhhlahhhh. Enclosed 8" sub for mid-bass in your floor which gives you amazing imaging.

Ive done some whack ass installs not to mention iasca judging a few years ago. Judged at finals a few times. :twisted:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2004 8:34 am 
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It sounds really great, I'm still in the process of setting the other amp cause they are hitting harder than the kicker, so I barely heard them

Because I only finish 1 door, my amp is running in 8ohms so there's not enough power comming in, but with both connect, I'll give them 100RMS (the max they can take)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 02, 2004 1:26 pm 
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Along the lines of what c5golfguy mentioned I just finished installing an 8" Acoustic Profile speaker under my front passenger side seat frame. Used some rubber spacers and some of those body panel clips that slide in through a hole to make a spot to bolt to. (any old 80's v6 chev,pontiac,buick should use these clips on the upper rad support)
I attached the clips to the metal seat supports (the ones that snake along from end to end and then attached long skinny bolts to the clips.

I'm just finishing putting the other sub under the driver seat and I'll try and get pics posted soon. I'm running a Pioneer amp in the glove box as this is the perfect place to tune and open up if the amp is to hot. Amp is rated 100W rms bridged and 70w x2 in stereo. I think that I might run the subs in parallel from the one bridged channel. I wasn't after imaging but when you don't have any bass coming from a new CD deck, your willing to try anything that only costs you $50 total for subs and the amp.

The girlfriend has likened the bass experience to that of a vib..... (but we won't get into any more specifics than that!)

P.S. the sub has enough room from the floorboard and won't hit excurse (?) fly to high and hit the seat when the passenger has flexed the seat padding down.

Hey TRcolt,
I can't off the top of my head, remember if I should be running the subs in series or parallel to put more load on the amp and get it pump more, I figure series is more stressful and parallel is less stressful as the load is halfed. Any input would help, thanks.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 02, 2004 7:52 pm 
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Location: Waterloo, ON Canada
2 4 ohm subs in series = 8 ohm
2 4 ohm subs in parallel = 2 ohm


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 02, 2004 10:15 pm 
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But it seems you installed some house speakers, so they are probably 8 ohms, so plug them in parellel and you'll get a 4 ohms impedance and your amp is stable in bridge at 4 ohms

If your speakers are 4 ohms each, you'll need to plug them in seperate channel or in series to save your amp

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Begin: September 16 2005
End: October 7 2005

Rebuilt
Begin: April 16 2006
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But still not running


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 03, 2004 12:01 am 
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well if you bridge you looseyour stereo reproduction.. and ruin the whole front stage wouldn;t you?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 03, 2004 8:47 pm 
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In my case the bridged signal is the bass felt in my rump and is only mono, because the subs are under my seats firing straight up. No real sound SQ issues from my current point of view but money always changes that for me. I only have one external amp firing the two subs - the rest of the car is powered by the Pioneer CD deck for reasons of ease and I can set my frequency range to the sub amp at the flick of a few buttons.

Happy to report that using a series hookup with the two subs (assuming 8 ohms each - final of 16 ohms I guess), I have achieved the level of bass output that I wanted to feel, rather than have everyone outside of my car hearing it (if you know what I mean)
Berserko you had this problem and I did too, whence my 5K Phoenix Gold system was yanked and all three of my cars (at the time) were accosted! Should have just bought another battery instead of always swapping from the lincoln. Dam punks lived 4 doors down but .... I'm just glad the insurance covered enough for me to go to college. How else does your stereo turn into what you paid, minus 10% per component per year depreciation! pheww. Keep your receipts no matter how small!

Back on Topic though,
I think that this is a good home brew upgrade for those that want minimal space intrusion into the cockpit area and none in the trunk.
-= Amp in glove box (barring size issues and stereo layout)
-= One sub per seat in front spaced not to hit seat under Xmax (max excursion if I remember right)
-= short wiring to everything and is totally removable with no damage except to the glove box inner panel that holds the swivel door; you need some holes there


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