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So you're saying it's good for the turbo's seals to see 100+ psi spikes when running off the filter housing? Rhetorical question, I know the answer (it's no btw).
If the "seals" see 100psi, then your turbo's oil return must be clogged. You should check that.
I'm not going to go into a huge discussion about the physical laws of hydraulics, but you can take your filtered oil from the head OR the oil filter housing. It doesn't really matter. If it's enough pressure to float the camshafts on a layer of oil, it must be enough to float my brand new $800 turbo's shaft on a layer of oil. I hope. Or I'll just run the new stainless line form the freshly filtered source on the filter housing.
I've rebuilt enough engines to know that the oil passage that goes to the head, is the same pressurized oil that comes out of the filter, is the same pressurized oil that floats the crank, is the same pressurized oil that floats the rods, is the same pressurized oil that floats the camshafts, is the same pressurized oil that floats the turbo shaft, is the same pressurized oil that pumps into the sides of the lifters. The only "regulator" is the main oil pressure relief valve that keeps the system from exeeding 100PSI.
I take my oil from the filter housing because it gets the oil to my turbo (where I need it) faster at startup. But it's all personal preference.
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Take oil from the STOCK location, mitsu would tell you the same thing.
BTW: If you want to run everything stock, and to the letter of how the Mitsubishi techs designed it, then why would you suggest deleting the water pipes? And I hope you aren't boosting past 11PSI.