4g61t.org

Bill and Ted's Execelent Adventure duh!

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01 Maxima VQ30DE
92 Summit 4g63t (Traded to Evo... R.I.P.)

That's the reason why I post last time that I AM REALLY GETTING CRAZZZZZZZZY WITH THIS CAR!!!!!

But, I am still suspecting maybe I'm doing it WRONG the grounding of Diagnostic port, since the Diagnostic port installed into this car only have 3 pins ( 1 top left corner-2 bottom right corner).

1. Which of this 3 pins need to be grounded? (top left or bottom right?)

Last time I check the error on this diagnostic port using the Test lamp that I made, I connected it to Top left & Bottom right pins. If I connect it to Top left & Top pin on the right, I am not getting any lights.

2. Do you think it should be grounded to Bottom right pin where I am getting the reading of error codes?


NAMRON
88 COLT GTi-16V

The uppermost pin is the data pin (pin 1) the ECU uses to send error codes. The lowermost pin (pin 12) is ground. The pin just above the ground pin is pin 10. This one is the one that has to be grounded.

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Got rabies?

?????

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Got rabies?

I tried to adjust the BISS again last night after coming home from work, I followed your post instructions last Dec. 4 to connect the grounding wires while the engine is still running. The engine did not stall and the RPM is 700-750, I turned the BISS to lower it more in hoping that RPM will be lower from 1100-1200,while turning the BISS slowly, the engine quits. Start again, engine won't start!! I removed the grounding wires and start the engine, engine starts but RPM is still the same 1100-1200. Do you have any ideas WHY THIS STRANGE THINGS IS HAPPENING????

Before going home, I checked all the wiring from CAS sensor & Vacuum lines while the engine is running and found that there is no abnormalities. I knew that my engine is good but only the intefacing sensors/ signal is wrong, and it's really too complicated for me to pinpoint which sensor is bad because everytime I checked Diagnostic port with my test-lamp, the reading is always continuos blinking of the lamp means No fault stored, but WHY DO YOU THINK ENGINE IS RUNNING LIKE CRAP??? IS IT POSSIBLE THE CAS SENSOR IS BAD?? Can I remove & clean it, I checked the wiring at the bottom of my CAS and theres some oil on it, is this the cause of this HIGH-IDLING on cold start??


NAMRON
88 COLT GTi-16V

The CAS either works or not. You can't clean it. However, this situation remembers me of non-typical ECU failures. Did you already took a look at the caps?

BTW, with all those grounding wires installed, turn the BISS untill you reach 750 revs. This is the norm. If the ECU does anything else after disconnecting the wires and idle rises to 1100, the something else is faulty - like the ECU.

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Got rabies?

So, You mean to say that I can have a faulty ECU even I don't have any "CHECK ENGINE" warning light appear on my instrument panel?

Is it possible for me to rectify this faulty ECU by only changing the 3 caps inside?

Thanks a lot!!


NAMRON
88COLT GTi-16V

Changing the caps will either help the problem - or not.
When the bahaviour of the car gets better w/ new caps, then the ECU is safe for another 10 or so years. If not, it's either totally shot then, or nothing will change at all.

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Hi! I already changed 3 caps to my ECU & hook up to my car this afternoon. Then, I start the engine & RPM still on 2000-2300 on cold start. After the engine reached its normal operating temperature the RPM drops to 1000-1200.

I removed the Closed-Throttle position switch & thinking to find one in a junkyard, but instead I tried to connect anywhere in the engine bay to seek ground and suddenly the RPM drops to 700-750. I tried it 3x and everytime I removed it to the ground connection in the chassis the RPM always goes up to 1000-1200. So, I decided to cleanedthe tip of Closed-Throttle switch by using a sand paper for proper continuity & installed it back while the engine is running at 1000-1200RPM and as soon it's touched to Throttle-lever the RPM drops to normal of 700-750,WOW

I test drove the car and NO PROBLEM of car stalling & erratic idling. It's running like a normal EFI car now.
And one of these days I will try to check & make some adjustment on Base-Timing & Idling.

Does I solved the problem thru changing 3 caps or cleaning the contact of Closed-Throttle position switch?

Anyway, THANK YOU VERY MUCH TO ALL THE PEOPLE ON THIS SITES & I REALLY LEARNED SO MANY THINGS ABOUT THIS CAR


NAMRON
88 COLT GTI-16v

WOW cool! I think you solved the problem by cleaning the closed throttle switch. And changing the ECU caps has prevented possible headaches and ECU replacements (costy!) in the future. Hehe fantastic now your car runs as it should! It's time to start tuning it maybe.

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Got rabies?