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 Post subject: BCS installation
PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2016 7:31 pm 
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Location: California
I recently purchased a mirage gt with the 4g61t. the guy before me installed a 14b and bov. the 14b is on its last leg so i went and go me a used small 16g full setup even came with the mbc. the 14bs j pipe doesnt have the nipple for the vacuum line, basically the cars vacuum went from the wastegate solenoid to the bov to the intake manifold lol, he capped the intake line and removed the stock bcs. Im trying to install the BCS that came with the 16g but im afraid i do not know where it plugs in at so the ECU can see it. its a T shaped plug but on the left side there are 3 loose plugs all T shaped, i dont know what went there and what he removed. im going to run a hose from the wastegate and a j pipe with nipple to the BCS then up to the intake, the bov will have its own line to the intake manifold.

just need help with where the bcs plug goes!


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 Post subject: Re: BCS installation
PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2016 10:05 pm 
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The Silent Administrator
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Get it running on stock boost, confirmed with a wideband, then worry about tuning and upping the boost.

In theory the BCS goes inline with the wastegate vacuum line going to the nipple on the J-pipe.

There are some good threads here: Tuners
and the holy grail of vacuum line routing scenarios: Tuners


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 Post subject: Re: BCS installation
PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2016 7:07 pm 
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sorry i meant the 16g came with a bcs not mbc...im not trying to up the boost, trying to get the car back to stock, the guy before me had it wired strange. i found the stock bcs under the battery but one of the nipples was broken so im going to use the one that came with the 16g, does it matter which vacuum goes to which nipple on the bcs?


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 Post subject: Re: BCS installation
PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2016 9:11 pm 
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The Silent Administrator
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On your hood is a vacuum diagram. If it is not there, then the factory manuals located at http://www.lilevo.com/mirage/ <-1989 Mirage turbo manual specifically, will contain what you want; in the emissions section.
The BCS solenoid basically can be "plumbed" with vacuum at either port in theory, but the vacuum diagrams on the hoods of all turbo cars, will show a proper orientation that you should use.
BCS goes inline with the wastegate and the J-pipe coming off the turbo. That is what comes to mind, but I'm not infallible, so somebody should back me up. I have only recently plumbed my car properly for wastegate and BOV source vacuum.
The diagrams located in my link at Tuners, wil show the 1G 1990 or 1991-94, and they should have the same BCS setup. Nothing fancy, just a way to open the wastegate to keep boost low or Nil if encountering knock / fuel issues past the threshold set in the ECU pogramming.


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 Post subject: Re: BCS installation
PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2016 12:11 am 
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i got most of it correctly wired, i noticed a nipple on my thermo that was left unattached, im not sure what vacuum line is supposed to go there, ive done some research and it seems to be the thermo valve and the vacuum has something to do with the egr.

after putting the car back together i now idle at about 1500 rpm with an idle surge lol FML


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 Post subject: Re: BCS installation
PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2016 12:29 am 
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Location: California
upon further inspection it appears that my thermo valve is missing a nipple, it broke off...need a part number if anybody has one for that piece?

in the manual the "california tc" doesnt show a thermal valve, the car is in california, can i eliminate this valve and still pass smog?

my ultimate goal here is to smog this machine lol


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 Post subject: Re: BCS installation
PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2016 7:15 am 
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If the smog tech does a "proper" inspection with any kind of zeal, he will be looking at your emissions diagram and at the very least be looking for EGR provisions and to see it hooked up. He/she may test the EGR but the test may not be invasive. In theory, you have a duty controlled EGR setup (California emissions), versus the vacuum diaphragm model (Federal emissions) which as you found uses a vacuum valve which when cold blocks vacuum that is applied only at light throttle cruise application based on vacuum from the throttle body. When the pellet inside warms up, this thermo valve should allow vacuum to operate the vacuum diaphragm on the EGR valve. That is Federal. California gets a duty controlled setup and may have an EGR sensor feedback and the ECU controls the EGR diaphragm more stringently. Two different EGR setups, with California type providing more control of the two options.
The biggest thing to look for is having a functioning and by that I mean over 85% efficiency (compared to its start point for new cars (sets CEL lights)) a properly working THREE WAY CATALYTIC CONVERTER.
Without a good catalytic, the 4g15's never pass smog and the 4g63 would be a distant second. Confirm with a decent temp laser gun that the temps after the catalytic are indeed within the proper range, meaning hotter, to prove the catalytic is operating/hand shaking with the exhaust gases.

You don't need a FPR solenoid, or BCS, or even have to worry about the size of your turbo, EGR won't fail a proper and clean combustion process, as only the catalytic should be you main worry other than old oil, leaking valve stem seals/rings creating smoke, or an improperly routed exhaust (per your local standards) to fail the car; IE side exit, no muffler, yadda yadda. I say EGR won't come into play, but that is true mainly for a two step idle process (2500RPM sniff, then idle sniff), but it will if they test the car at 40KMH but not a whole lot. You can get them to try and test the the car in second gear on a rolling test (if it fits in the RPM and land speed parameters) to get the catalytic hotter should the car prove to be old.
I change everything on my 1.6t motor, and the single biggest and guaranteed winner was the catalytic after the spark plugs and wires, all oil burning things being in check. The three way catalytic brings HC and NOx WAY down to breathable levels and helps to keep your from smelling like your just mowed your lawn with a two stroke mower. That smell gets old fast.
That's about all I can think of to add, this early in the morning. Just woke up, typed this on my dinky phone. Any spelling errors are autocorrect horridness.

If you check the archives for my post about what made my car pass and what did not, I performed all that work with helpful local for parts swapping/testing and to prove a point before I knew enough about cars and exhaust processes. It cost me a bundle of cash, but it proved what old rmissions techs already knew. I passed emissions last time with my Cyclone intake (dual runner - no EGR) provisions (not mandatory visual check anymore for cars here in Ontario), and in the 2500 RPM and got idle sniff test. That is all that is required. I passed based upon a 1.6L dilution setup (I have the 2.0L running 7.8:1 compression), and passed like it was a new car. I didn't even have to select the hotrod option as I would have liked, because it allows my emissions test to checked against the 1980 emission standards for Canada/Federal). My catalytic is a cheap $75-$125 aftermarket 2.5" style, but is sealed with no leaks. Leaks before the catalytic allow it to operate like an afterburner if excessive - ie cat monolith killer if left out of whack long enough.

There's your book, thank me later. Haha.


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 Post subject: Re: BCS installation
PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2016 7:31 am 
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The Silent Administrator
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Oh, and please put a location in your profile, one of the few rules we double check for our user base. Helps us, help you. California emissions is more stringent than Federal.
P.S. If replacing the catalytic converter, get the best model you can (Highest precious metals content), and preferably or likely would have to be listed as California emissions type). We don't get those Catalytics here in Federal areas (Canada/rest of the US except New York and maybe one other place as regulations have changed over the last decade).


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 Post subject: Re: BCS installation
PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2016 7:33 am 
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What size is your exhaust system? Stock? 2.5 to 3"?

If you have wicked idle lope/surge get that fixed beforehand. You can within reason as the tester to crack the throttle a pinch to keep the car off the idle circuitry, but would have to remain near 1000 or some such window. That can help a cammed car without the help of Link. Most stations won't have a direct plugin for your DLC, as they will use a wand/probe to pickup your RPM.
This was a little trick that I used in the past. Didn't do anythin this last test period. My car goes in running link versus keydiver chip, in the next week.


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 Post subject: Re: BCS installation
PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2016 6:20 pm 
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Location: California
ive spent about 4 hours inspecting vacuum hoses and piping to figure out why i have idle surge all the sudden, im going to go ahead and remove a bunch of crap. (egr block off, all the solenoids, and plug the top ports on my intake manifold.) Im going to keep the FPS until i upgrade my fuel pump.

something like this but i will still have the FPS in place:
Image

i wont pass smog with the motor thats in it, i suspect the rings are burnt, im going to swap a 4g63 in a few weeks and smog it then.

i believe the exhaust is stock but i cant be 100% i dont know what this car looks like stock and there not much material to compare it to


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 Post subject: Re: BCS installation
PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2016 6:25 pm 
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also kind of a dumb question but the stock intake pipe has two large hoses, i know one is for the oil overflow on the valve cover, the other is connected to the purge valve which connects to the charcoal can right?


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 Post subject: Re: BCS installation
PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2016 10:34 pm 
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Do me a favor and leave the EGR together for now. Confirm if it has two vacuum ports on top of the diaphragm. If just one then it is Federal. Put a vacuum hand pump on the vacuum nipple and confirm when operated, that it nearly stalls the motor or actually does. If nothing happens, then assume the diaphragm is leaking (not as likely as the next bit), or the passage in the Intake manifold is plugged with soot/carbon.
You can delete it if you want, but spraying brake cleaner near it may confirm a leaking diaphragm and a spot that idle surge could be created by. Leave fiddling with the EGR till last if I were you.

To answer your question, there is one hose that goes to the breather tube on the valve cover, the other I don't have used with my 2G intake snorkel. I plugged two ports on it, but my canister gets a feed from the fuel tank, a plug cap, and one charcoal canister tube going to the breather to atmosphere that is vacuum controlled from the firewall ala purge valve. Not sure where the intake snorkel second tube nipple was originally plumbed as it has been too long. You will have to consult the factory manual and it's 1.6/1.6t vacuum diagrams. I assume they are there in the emissions section, as this will details everything.


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 Post subject: Re: BCS installation
PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2016 11:11 pm 
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Location: California
ok so ill test the egr, i remember from earlier today it has 2 vacuum lines running from it. one of the lines on my egr solenoid has been capped, i tried following the lines from the EGR but i lose track under the manifold. maybe that is my problem because i have my charcoal canister setup wrong...i have one port from the gas tank, the carb port is capped and the last port goes to the purge control valve, that valve has two vacuum lines and two larger hoses, one hose coming from the charcoal can and mistakenly i hooked the other hose up to the intake pipe, i didn't know that hose dumps to the atmosphere, i will disconnect that hose and cap the intake when i get home and see if that fixes my idle.

since my egr has two vacuums which one do i test?


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 Post subject: Re: BCS installation
PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2016 11:36 pm 
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well actually i just checked the service manual for intake and under number 3 it says that the valve is a "purge hose connection" so maybe i did get the hose correct...

Image


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 Post subject: Re: BCS installation
PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2016 12:49 am 
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Location: California
yea ive confirmed with the dsm manual as well, the hose is connected correctly to the purge valve, you suspect the egr vacuum line but before i swapped the 16g in my idle was perfect, ive checked and rechecked everything that i disconnected in the process and im stumped. before i installed the turbo i replaced all the gaskets and crush washers on it. theres a slight chance that it could be the hole where the hose for the bypass valve was on the intake, the guy had a long hose ran with some towels stuffed in it because he installed a blow off valve and it cant be recirculated and i dont have a 1g bov laying around, i removed the hose and plugged the hole on the intake best i could, im going to inspect it and fabricate a cap for it, other than that the next step for me would be to pull all the vacuum lines and fit the car with all new lines. Im also going to change out the 02 sensor because i left the 02 sensor that was already in the 16g in there and didnt reuse my old sensor, they looked to be the same sensor except mine was blackened and the 16g was only grey (looked healthier)


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