If you have a DOHC motor and it is turbo, then you have the same oiling system as the GVR4 and DSM 4g63t's. Yes, my turbo sun visor tells me 10w30 and heavier weight oils should the temp range go up/change with the climate/zone. You can run 5w30, but I recommend a slighly heavier weight and something with good additives for antiwear (not new car formulas).
Sign up at galantvr4.org and have a look at this thread:
Oils thread ... not the first, but pretty comprehensive
Lots of oils there hit the nail on the head!
Hope that helps.
Essentially depending upon your modifications, you want oil pressure in a proper range. Not too low, not too high! Aim for oil school rule of thumb of a ball park range of 10 psi for every 1000RPM. Idle in the manual should put you above 10psi+ to 25+ warm, depends upon whether or not you have a 1.6L or 2.0L with balance shaft deletes (higher pressures depending upon application of delete/balance shafts in block or bearings turned/rotated). Seen some very high pressure with Balance shaft bearings installed and turned, no shafts and the 1.6L BSD kit installed. 1.6L's used no balance shafts, and as such provide the delete kit parts.
Don't use Mobil 1 unless it fits into the category of "great oil for performance cars" per the thread I linked. Some oils have no zinc or phosporous, both of which are beneficial to keeping a turbo motor/turbo alive.
Not all oil additives last for long under extreme conditions, and the oil returns to being a contaminated lower viscosity in short order. You will see that linked in the thread. You may not be out racing, but it's a good point to make and for everyone to understand. Street use, most would be fine, but for peace of mind and knowing the genetics in your oils, will mean fewer issues long term.
If you just got your car, now is the time to do all the routine 4g61/4g63 maintenance stat! Then you will be fine for a long time.