4g61t.org

http://www.4g61t.org/forum/posting.php?mode=post&f=26

Considering how thin the 1.5l radiator is compaired to the 2.0 4g63 radiator found in fhe dsm, has anyone ran into cooling issues swapping a 4g63 into a 1.5 car?

It's the same size, side to side as a DSM/Galant/GVR4 rad, but only single core. I'll say half as effective as a double core, which leaves you at a 50% deficiency when the turbo kicks in and saturates the system with the extra heat transferred/induced. So, it may be okay for a while, or with a lack of extreme ambient heat and may operate just fine ... there may be more event cycles where the thermostat is opening and the fans are cycling on at lower speeds. Also, the 1.5L rads have a smaller top hose as compared to the top fitting of the C53a/DSM/GVR4/Galant radiators. Food for thought. If you check out my members thread, you will see all the info for radiators that are a drop in, that I could find at the time (2 months ago up here in Canada). Turbo Mirage/Colt 1989, Galant and Galant VR4 (top hose moves over 1" and overflow spout is clocked the other way {no real issue there}), and DSM radiators (they need a thermostat housing with the rad cap installed at the head, the DSM specific part). My vote is for the GVR4, because it is identical in all aspects including stock fan bolt holes, sensors and only the top hose outlet (proper size!) is moved over slightly.

The stock 1.5l radiator is also about an inch taller than the dsm radiator too. I decided and then just did some modifications and put a know good all metal 1g dsm radiator in. My 1.5l one had a hole in it. I swapped the dsm goosneck before i discovered the hole so that was a good thing for me. I asked because also i remember trying to use the stock 1.8l dsm radiator with a turbo 4g63t swap and it would overheat in the summer at idle. That was a single core unit IIRC.

don't mess around with the cooling system. It will easily destroy the engine if it overheats.

Go with a turbo style rad minimum.

DSM rads are too short, and require modification like you said.

If you have a 3G style csm, then get a 89 colt turbo radiator, which swaps right in. This would be the bare minimum I would use on a turbo car. also GVR4

For a upgrade you can use a evo I-III racing all aluminum radiator , which can be had for a little over $200. these fit right into the 3g colts besides needing a bung welded in them for the radiator fan sensor.

Well as i said, i already installed the dsm radiator. Not very difficult. And it was free and proven to handle all i could throw at it.

And I'm not sure if one is 'messing around' or if the 1.5l radiator was alright; i.e., if no one mentions swapping radiators in the 4g63 swaps because they are doing fine with the original style radiator. Thats the purpose of this question... I know overheating damages engines. I understand the point of view to overkill if you dont know. I am asking who knows about 1.5l radiators and 4g63 swaps.

On my first swap, way back in 02-ish, we used the stock 1.5 rad. It was a completely stock swap, but I drove that car year round (mostly city driving too), with no issues. If the 1.5 cooling system is in good shape, there shouldn't be any problems, IMO. The thicker turbo rads are a good idea, and will provide more coolant capacity, but if I was swapping a 1.5 car, I wouldn't bother.

_________________
Early 2000's: 1992 Summit sedan - 14.1 @ 100.9mph w/ 155/80 13s
2012: 1989 Dodge Colt GT Turbo - 14.9 @ 100mph, 10psi/s16G

Ah, thank you broke 4speed. If i didnthave this nice dsm radiator here, i would definately drop in an oe replacement then. What makes the dsm radiator difficult is dealing with my 3" thick evo upgrade intercooler. The thickness of the second core makes a big difference. I ended up modifying the hood latch placement. But after that and properly securing it (its slightly shorter than stock ), it was a piece of cake.

You may have a problem with getting all the air out of the cooling system with a dsm radiator. I tried one a few years back. Even with the filler cap thermostat housing, i could never burp the system correctly. I suspect if you could get the dsm radiator lower than the thermostat housing, it might solve my problem. But, i said the hell with it and bought an all aluminum vr4 radiator for the price of a stock piece. Check out my thread in the 4g61/4g63 section for more details.

_________________
go fast- break stuff- repair- repeat

I'll put the back end up. Thanks for the heads up.

Whats interesting is The dsm radiator sits 1" lower than the stock radiator. And as i see the gooseneck, the thermostat sits right where the outlet of the radiator sits, the same plane. But i will certainly park on a hill or jack the butt up and be sure.

Using a "Spill Free Funnel" means you don't have to angle the car and car rev it all you want to help "cycle" the coolant in waves, until all the bubbles come out of the engine, heater core, and TB FIAV areas. Mucho importante for the air to be totally purged, or gremlins ensure with idle, temp readings etc.

Great to hear you have a properly sized radiator to work with now.

Yes the funnel kits with the adapters for various radiator caps and plug for holding the excess when done... Im sure the dsm radiator is more than enough, if the 1.5l radiator was ok for those that used it.

I did it for a couple of weeks when i did the swap, but it's not recommended for turbo apps since it's too skinny and close to the turbo this will make the temperature go up so fast, thats why i went with a 89-93 sohc galant radiator and flex a lite fans, no overheating problems...

_________________
91' Mitsubishi Colt 4G67T FWD "The Minion" - 12.26@118
94' Mitsubishi Galant GS 4g63 Swap "White Unicorn"
95' Eagle Talon Tsi FWD "Ernie's car" - 13.92@104 *Rest In Parts*

I ran a stock 1.5L radiator to around 640awhp with AC. I've been running a stock 1.6L radiator ever since and now I'm just shy of 800awhp, with A/C. Never had any overheating issues.

^ Well that says it all there.

Yeah, i also used a dsm rad on a 3G colt, and also has major issues getting all the air out. even jacking the back end up or parking on a extrteme slope did not get all the air out. Went to the GVR4 rad and swapped the stock 4g61t thermostat housing back on and it worked great after that.