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PostPosted: Thu May 27, 2010 5:30 pm 
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I see this question pop up from time to time. Can I put a dsm tranny in my car? The answer is, YES, but there is a catch :) . The shift levers are slightly different between the csm and the dsm. Also be sure to get a tranny from a 90-92.5 dsm as the 92.5-94 fwd turbo cars use a different diff that require larger axles. This means the 89 turbo axles and intermediate shaft will not work with the later model turbo trans.

We'll tackle the hardest part first. One of the shift levers is held onto the tranny with a pin. Don't even attempt to drill this thing out, even with the tranny out of the car. I've also read that other members have had success with driving the pin out by leaning the tranny over and supporting the lever and whacking it with a hammer and a punch. This may work but I didn't try it. I chose to cut the factory welds with a dremel tool and a black cutoff disc. Cut all the way through the welds but stop when you get to the shift lever. There is a weld on the bottom as well thats a little harder to get to but it can be done.

This is the lever we will be cutting off.
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Once you have cut through both welds on the top and bottom tap it with a hammer to see if it moves. If the cuts are deep enough it should shift and then come off with very light taps. Do not bang on this thing with the hammer, if it doesn't move cut the welds a little deeper and try again. Once its off this is what you will see.

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Now do the same for the csm lever. My tranny was bad so I just took my angle grinder and a 4 1/2" cutoff disc and cut the entire shaft off and then hauled it off as scrap. The 1.5L 4 speed manual and the 5 speed manual both share identical shift levers as the KM210 that came in the turbo colt and mirage. They will have an "L" stamped on them.

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pic of the bottom weld

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If you notice on the dsm tranny you can tell exactly where the old lever was as it will be discolored underneath. I also ground off the remaining weld so that the csm lever would lay flat for welding. Be careful and do not just buff the entire top because you need to know exactly where the new lever needs to be. Only grind the places where the original welds were.

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Now remove all of the old weld from the csm lever, top and bottom.

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Position the csm lever on the tranny and line it up. Like I mentioned earlier you can tell exactly where it needs to be. This pic was actually taken before I buffed off the welds but you get the idea. Once you are happy with it tack weld it in place.

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Flip the tranny so that you can access the bottom weld and clamp the lever on tight with a pair of vice grips. Now you can go ahead and weld the bottom.

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Once the bottom has been welded flip it back over and weld the top.

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Now shoot it with some paint to keep it from rusting. Noticed I taped off the pin that the cable attaches to.

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The rest is very easy, you simply unbolt the other shift lever from the csm tranny (two 12mm headed bolts) and bolt it onto the dsm tranny. Make sure you don't lose the little square plastic piece.

Here is a comparison between the csm and dsm levers. The csm parts are also marked with an "L". You can see the dsm lever on the left is slightly different/longer.

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From the top you can see the angle of the bend is also different, again the dsm lever is on the left. You can also see the square plastic piece that I mentioned earlier. Its pictured on the csm lever on the right (you can barely see it on the bottom). Its missing on the dsm lever, it should go on the short pin on the bottom.

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The last thing that you need to do is to swap over the actual bracket that holds the shift cables to the tranny. Make sure you have one of the rubber coated metal bushings on both sides of the bracket where the bolts go.

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The dsm actually has a small bracket that the cable bracket bolts to.
Discard it because the csm cable bracket bolts directly to the tranny.

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Thats it, now your F5M33 DSM turbo tranny is ready to bolt right in. The 1.5 and 1.6 cars share identical shifters and cables so don't worry if you have a 1.5 car.

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PostPosted: Thu May 27, 2010 5:52 pm 
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Great post, Chris. I'm making this a sticky. 8)

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PostPosted: Thu May 27, 2010 11:36 pm 
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Is this needed? or just an option, What about the tranny km210

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PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 7:07 am 
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Quote:
Is this needed? or just an option, What about the tranny km210

This is mainly for the 1.5 guys that are dropping in a 4G63T and a dsm tranny. The KM210 of course bolts right in with no problems since they came in the turbo cars.

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PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 6:25 pm 
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Quote:
Quote:
Is this needed? or just an option, What about the tranny km210

This is mainly for the 1.5 guys that are dropping in a 4G63T and a dsm tranny. The KM210 of course bolts right in with no problems since they came in the turbo cars.

Oh i see, I though it was just going to be just a drop in but i guess had to do some more work, So can this be done without cutting and weilding?

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PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 8:03 pm 
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Yes, there are plenty of other ways to do this. You can swap in a dsm shifter and cables and leave the tranny as it is. Add turnbuckles to the stock cables to make them longer and adjust them to fit. You can drill out the pin (not recommended), take a hammer and punch and knock the pin out or even drill a hole in the lever and attach the cable to it with a bolt and locknut.

I have a welder and wanted it to look stock so this is the way I chose. Even you don't own a welder you can do all of the hard work and let someone else weld it up for a few bucks.

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95 Eagle Summit DL coupe
15 Mitsubishi Mirage ES hatch


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PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 10:28 pm 
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I've pushed the pin out before, and it's not worth it. I takes a crapload of force, it's awkward to do, and risky to the transmission.

A few weeks ago I swapeed in a stock W5M33 transmission, and I did the cut and weld option. It's a lot easier than trying to get that damned pin out. I just wish I had another CSM lever for when I want to toss my center spool front posi transmission back in. None of these procedures are something you want to have to do in the pit area.


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PostPosted: Sun May 30, 2010 9:02 am 
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Here is another option for those not willing to cut or weld on the levers. Put the tranny in the car, have someone hold the shifter in first gear, make sure the tranny is in first gear, take the shift cable and put it over the lever and mark the location where the pin should be. Drill a 5/16" hole and attach the shift cable under the lever with a 5/16" bolt and locknut. Tighten the locknut only until it touches and leave it loose so that the cable can move. This mimics the 3g csm lever pretty well. I did this on a previous car and put maybe 5k miles on it and never had an issue. Of course you still need to swap in the cable bracket and the other shift lever that bolts on.

Image

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89 2 Door Montero V6/Manual
95 Eagle Summit DL coupe
15 Mitsubishi Mirage ES hatch


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PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2010 12:33 am 
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One of the most poorly documented parts of this swap until now. Well done!!!

Tom

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 10:10 pm 
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Location: Cultus Lake, B.C, Canada
ahhh... i have to remove that arm on my km210.... unfortunalty the oil seal for the shift shaft leaks tranny oil like a bitch!!

I guess i HAVE to go the punch the pin out route for that one! Im hoping i can still find that seal around for the shift shaft!


I also did the drill/use bolt and locknut to make the shifter work in my 1990 DSM when i put a 1992 tranny into it. It worked fine for years.... just make sure to use some locktight on the nut to keep the cable from coming off the shift arm.

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