17" with a proper offset, might work but they are how wide?
I forgot that KSport has local distributors that can offer maybe lower prices than the US distributor and all of their drop shippers! Good news for you.
I can't comment on the reliability of KSports. I bought them out of convenience and the need to replace many lacking aspects of my current setup; weakened/sagging drop springs, shocks that don't like drop springs due to their spring rates sitting at the upper threshold of the valving to be able to control them. I rebuilt my setup last year when the gas tank got refurbished and I found one corner of the car sitting low and was hoping that this alone was the cause of a serious alignment pull that tire swapping did not correct. I have since realigned my poly engine/trans mounts and am in the process of getting the KSports figured out.
I just had a look through ASA, and when I input the C62A chassis and select rear shocks absorbers, the vehicle crossover reference shows both C62A and C52A as being applicable. This means that hatch FWD or sedan FWD, it is the same fitment. Now, in theory this means that K-Sports will fit your sedan, using the hatch model they list on their US site. Take a look at the pictures in my "build" section thread, and you will see what I am dealing with and hoping will fit. Others like "Shawn J" are using KSports, so hopefully my box of parts was picked and assembled properly, as were his. Couple other members here have them also, maybe they will see this and comment. If you search K Sport, KSport" on the site, see who has a name that pops up and contact them via PM. Maybe they can tell you if their suspension looked dimensionally just like mine or not.
Front brake lines, best to either work with bending the supplied brackets to work with custom braided lines with rubber grommet to hold them in place, or re-use the wrap-around mid-height brake line bracket that secures the factory lines directly to the factory strut mounts. Then it is only a matter of properly holding things in place so the lines don't rotate.
Rear lines, same fitment because they don't attach to the strut assembly. If you have drum brakes, then disregard my custom brake line measurements posted on my build sheet, because drums use different lengths of hose. You might as well just use rubber hose replacements to save on cost and frustration, but no reason you can't use braided stainless/teflon core lines, but do the whole system, end to end if you go that route.
Have a read over the suspension threads that Captain Tonus posted in, amongst others, they can tell you what offsets and tires combinations will roughly clear the coil base mounts on factory struts. Tires will change this by a certain degree because all tires have different sidewalls regardless of having matching tread widths to other tires, as well as matching sidewall ratio.
Be advised that going to a short wall tire, and then stiffer coilover suspension will make the car feel very stiff. If you do suspension first, then try wheels/tires in a slightly larger format, you at least get to know what the "seat of the pants" feel is like once the suspension loosens up with use. If the tires are too short and the suspension isn't valved quite right ..... and suspension bushings are old and allow excessive movement (which we know they do), then you can have the tires skipping over the road on side loading and other circumstances.
I should mention that the bottom clevis/clamp on the front KSport struts, does have an elongated hole for camber adjustment, as well as coming with camber adjustable top mounts! Double whammy, all good. This may help others using GVR4 knuckles or similar with massive camber issues; not so much an issue for you.
Excel-G is the replacement for GR2 we all have come to know. They are lifetime warranty, and have never lasted me that long with any combination of lowering spring, before the ride got bouncy. Then I loose the receipts .... only ones I ever seem to misplace from this build.
Also, if ever a shock body lets go (leaks oil/gas) then it is a drop in replacement. Threaded body portions could be another story, but every piece is available separately.
If your roads are not very smooth or you spend a bunch of time in dirt/mud, then maybe avoid coilovers. The piston rods do not come with a provision for a true dust boot. There is a dust boot but it is short and contains the bump stop more than anything. Also, the front strut mounts due allow a little window for water to enter the engine bay, as they do not completely cover the hole for them in the shock tower. Not a big deal, but again, dirty roads/salt and or lots of rainfall (monsoon season?) might be an enemy of the coilover and projected longevity. KSport does not warranty their strut rods for chrome/pitting! So, it says in the literature. They also state their products are for racing only, etc, etc. Makes you feel really good about what you just unboxed and now own. 1 year warranty if member serves .....
I have no road time in my car for the last 2-3 years so I won't ever pretend to know what the chassis will feel like with these installed, but I can tell you that a stiffer spring and valving to control it, will result in a firmer ride. "Bowdown"'s old car is now owned by ModicaUSMC and he had the Road Race coilovers I believe, so have a read through his thread. They might be offered in your area as bowdown had Phillipine contacts/family, but were super stiff. Probably too stiff for normal road use in our cars without seam welding/cage and less plastic interior to rattle around.
Click