4g61t.org

Trying to figure out a issue with the car pulling to the left. Does it while just cruising and much worse when accelerating.
I did the equal length half shaft conversion, but when mounting the carrier bearing retainer to the block the holes didn't line up very well up and down. I had to physically push down pretty hard on the shaft to get the bolts to start. I've read about other having to do the same thing but never any problems it caused, and possibly that I need to loosen the trans from the engine and let it spin a tiny bit..that even with the alignment dowls it could be off.

Any input would be appreciated. Anybody think the downward pressure on the shaft could be causing the steering pull issue? I've checked everything else for lose bushing, camber, and switched wheels/tires around with no change.

I got this car in a non running condition and never ran it with the stock unequal length axles and I don't have one to swap in and try without buying one.

Thanks
Randy

Does it look like the subframe is all straight? Any binding in the axles? The intermediate shaft should go in straight, then it's just a matter of spacing it out from the block until it spins easily by hand.

_________________
Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd

Also that bracket is different between auto and manual cars. You sure this one came from a manual car? I would bet putting force on it to get the bolts to start could very well cause it to pull to one side.

_________________
93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

As I said I got the car with most the stuff in boxes.
I went out this morning and turning the shaft by hand I can definitely feel binding, if I unbolt the shaft from the block and pick up on it about a 1/4" it spins smooth.

Is there a way to tell which shaft you have? Here is the one I have.

Looks like a 1g awd intermediate shaft. Removing it completely, can you spin it without any grinding/binding? It's possible the carrier bearing went bad. What trans are you using? Also, are you able to bolt it on using both of the mounting holes or just one?

_________________
Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd

Is your AC bracket installed, or the spacer that is put in place of the depth that the AC bracket takes up?

This is aside from the fact that the shaft should not be pryed up to get the bolts to start, this part must sit flat with no pressure up or down, other than the weight of the part itself.

89Mirageman has a great point about Auto/Manual parts, because the transaxles had different axles and spacings, even thought the same block was used.

I'd try to get one from a known manual car and go from there. Unfortunately I'm not sure what #'s would be on them.

_________________
93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

I thought the auto and manuals where different in length and possibly splines?

Well I got home early today and messed around with it. To have the holes line up vertically and the shaft be parallel with the engines pan rail the holes needed to be about 3/16" lower on the bracket. To much to just grind out, so I tossed the bracket in the band saw and cut a sliver out of it. Bolted the cut off chunk to the block and stuck the shaft in the motor. Held it where it looked good and tac'd it with the mig, pulled it off and tigged the snot out of it. Put it all back together and it goes down the road nice a straight now, doesn't even torque steer when the boost hit.

Going to be on the lookout for another intermediate shaft or might just order up the stock long shaft and stick in it. just happy I figured out why it pulled left so badly. Would be nice to know why it's like that though. I did find a thread on dsmforums where a guy was having the same issue. Notched the holes to get it where it needed to be and it worked fine after that. Later on he was working on the car and just happen to try a different unmodified intermediate shaft and it bolted right on no problems. I'm starting to kinda wonder if maybe the shaft that came with the car is form an elantra or something? Did they come with equal length shafts?

Can you answer these questions Evile? They might help us figure it out.

_________________
Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd

It's suppose to have a 91fwd turbo transmission.

And yes, both holes would bolt to the block, with the hole closest to the divers side requiring a cut off ear from an a/c bracket for a spacer.

It'll say on the trans, if it's a fwd 1g turbo dsm trans it'll be a F5M33.

_________________
Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd

The trans code will look something like this:

Click me for trans code location. Reference is a 1991-92 FWD F5M33 2SPZV

Yes, same as the one pictured in your link.

Then we have an intermediate shaft issue.

The motor, with that trans, should have no issues with the correct intermediate shaft and axle setup.

Pic of AWD DSM turbo axle setup 05.1988-05.1994

Click for DSM AWD Turbo intermediate shaft picture

Pic of FWD Mirage/Colt turbo intermediate shaft 04.1988-04.1992

Click for Mirage/Colt FWD Turbo intermediate shaft picture

For future reference, here is the listing for the spacer to fit where the AC bracket would normally reside. This is the AC delete spacer.

32183 MB297732 SPACER, FR AXLE. Period: 1988.04.1-1989.05.3; Part Spec: 13; Size: 13 02

Spacer:

Click for JNZTuning part

I have used the following combinations, all with the stock C53A intermediate shaft and axles, original motor and trans for a C53a and now the 4g63t and related FWD trans, all with no binding or fitment issues.

4g61t - KM210 FWD 5 speed
4g63t - KM210 FWD 5 speed
4g63t - F5M33 FWD 5 speed

For reference, my 4g63t motor was imported (red top) as a JDM motor/trans (4wd switchable) combo.
It was installed into a 1991 Eagle Talon AWD. 4g63t block with AWD trans.
Have to install the correct intermediate shaft hanger/related parts to match the transmission combination, the bolt holes on the blocks are all in usually in the same place.
Heck, they made 4g15's with 4wd .... but lets not go there because that is another can of worms entirely on its own.

Mirage Performance thread showing DSM AWD intermediate shaft from Raxles.com

http://www.mirage-performance.com/sonata/Axles/

These are the best pics I could get, at night, with my phone pressed up against the chassis:

Click
Click
Click
Click

Striking similarity between the pictures of my intermediate shaft and the one you had pictured.

You will notice that on the inboard side, the top bolt hole should be almost inline with the inner most portion of the carrier bearing.

The axle you have posted, shows the inner most lower portion more to the outboard side.

You have the wrong carrier, but if you can get one from a turbo mirage setup, you are laughing because the shaft itself should be identical.

I just had a read over the axle thread stickied at the top of the 4g61/4g63 Tech Section, just to freshen up on this stuff.