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what are parts to look for when replacing clutch?

Not sure exactly what you mean by this, but there isn't much to it. You buy a complete clutch kit that gives you everything you need (pressure plate, clutch disc, throwout bearing, alignment tool). You will either need to replace the flywheel with a brand new one, or get the existing flywheel re-surfaced. It doesn't hurt to replace the clutch fork and pivot ball when you do the clutch, but it's not really necessary, unless you are putting a much stiffer clutch in there.

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91 GSX - 511fwhp and 352 lb/ft 25psi 110 octane, 7.68 @ 95.9mph 1/8th 21psi 91 octane, 11.93 @ 112.9mph, 117.7mph best trap speed, 20psi 91 octane
98 Volvo S70 T5 - DD

http://www.facebook.com/captaintonus

If you have the transmission off, replacing the clutch fork and pivot ball will mean not having to worry about those in case of needing to adjust things, as Tonus mentioned due to a stiffer clutch plate.

Also, all 1G clutch forks are now the second design, if buying new, aftermarket could be billet and likely stronger than the originals too.

sorry about that confusing question. are there any seals that I need to replace as well?

No seals.

If the input shaft seal (the splined shaft for the clutch disc to transfer power to) is leaking, then look at opening the transmission, and possibly bearings.
If no leaks, then no worries.

Oh, you likely wondered about seals for the axles at the casing into the diff. You can change those, and not have to worry that your expensive diff fluid leaking out.

The rear main oil seal too. While you're right there at it.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

how many rear main oil seal does the CSM has?

Don't forget to shim the pivot ball with a hardened washer and plenty of loctite.

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Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd

I wouldn't touch the rear main seal unless it's leaking. That's like opening a can of worms. Don't you have to take off the oil pan to get at it completely too?

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91 GSX - 511fwhp and 352 lb/ft 25psi 110 octane, 7.68 @ 95.9mph 1/8th 21psi 91 octane, 11.93 @ 112.9mph, 117.7mph best trap speed, 20psi 91 octane
98 Volvo S70 T5 - DD

http://www.facebook.com/captaintonus

so if it doesn't have any leak no need yet to replace those? coz I hardly touch the transmission and clutch of this car so just checking what are those that are due and needed replacing.

Do the trans seals, shim the pivot ball, replace tranny fluid, new clutch, resurface flywheel. Use BLUE (removable) loctite on every bolt.

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Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd

does the Loctite threadlocker blue 242 really needed? so I can include those.

I see your point and I kinda agree. But on the other hand a clutch usually lasts what, 50k or more? Who's to say that seal won't start leaking before the transmission has to come off again? I guess it really depends on his plans for the car. If it was something I was planning to keep and drive forever I'd change it. If he's just trying to get it back on the road I'd leave it alone. I think you can change it without pulling the oil pan completely but I'd take it down and do it right if it were me.

Mikbik, there's only one on the rear of the engine. That huge seal on the back where the crank sticks out and the flywheel bolts up.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

I've never had a rear main seal leak on any of my Mitsubishis, and nobody I know has ever had one leak before either. I'd still recommend leaving it alone.

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91 GSX - 511fwhp and 352 lb/ft 25psi 110 octane, 7.68 @ 95.9mph 1/8th 21psi 91 octane, 11.93 @ 112.9mph, 117.7mph best trap speed, 20psi 91 octane
98 Volvo S70 T5 - DD

http://www.facebook.com/captaintonus

The extreme shifts in temperature here in Indianapolis warrant him changing it if it has lots of miles, even if it isn't leaking. Temps can (and have) swing from -10 to 65 back to +5 in a 3-4 day span here, it tends to wreak havoc on lots of things that you normally don't worry about in more arid and stable climates (I never had a gasket issue growing up in AZ, or while serving in the USAF in Mississippi and Texas, but have had them here.)

It is cheap and you are right there. If your miles are relatively low then you could skate by.

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Thom
1991 GVR4 1025/2000 (PTE 1200's, 16g, DSMLink v3, gm-maf, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's, EVO VIII Wheels)
1992 GVR4 866/1000 (getting everything from above)