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PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2014 1:11 am 
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CSM Junkie

Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2011 6:27 pm
Posts: 526
Location: Lake in the hills, IL
[*]ok first its been awhile since I been on here. So busy with house, family, work and school. Anyways been a good year and half. I finally got the bug again lol. Anyways when the cars off im able to shift perfect and freely. When I put in 1st gear and hold clutch down and start it pulls the colt. When I start her push clutch pedal and try shifting into gears it grinds. I can start while in gear and go and Im able to shift fine with out the clutch pedal. No grinds, no slippage. No noises... Theres not much to the system, but before I go dropping everything, im looking for thoughts whats causing this? New slave, master, clutch line and is not clogged. 4puck unsprung less 4to5 months old with pp same. The only thing that wasnt replaced was fork and ball. When I push clutch in the slave moves... I have a comp fork and ball.ill change but any thoughts on whats causing this or what to look for whike its dropped..
Thanks!

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Speed kills!! Drive a Honda & live forever!


Last edited by king_of_the_street on Mon May 19, 2014 7:51 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2014 2:58 am 
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so if u put it in 1st gear and have the clutch pressed to the floor and start the car like that... it will move foreward? if so then it sounds like the system need to be bled.. so before u take anything apart let it gravity bleed for 10-15 min then try it again..


Steve

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Steve 89 colt 2.3 stroker stock top end. evo3@20 psi 13.489@99.30mph 3/10 2012
On drag radials.auto trans.launching @ 5 psi and no traction thru 2nd.


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PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2014 7:24 am 
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The Silent Administrator
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Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Gravity bleed.
Then bleed by pushing the slave cylinder in and crack the bleeder just before the push, and close just before it seats. You have to do this to get te air out of the slave!
If you have a second person, you can have them hold the pedal down and remove the gravity bleed portion if time is short.

If bleeding properly does not sort the issue, and you still have massive clutch drag with the pedal pushed down to the floor, then look at adjustment of the pedal assembly push rod to the clutch master.
Check to make sure you cannot pull te pedal back by hand from a rest position! This would be wear like a 1G DSM.
If all else is good, then failure of weak hydraulic components would be next on the list.

ACT heavy clutch pedal pressure plates will guarantee needing new master and slave cylinders, sticking with Mitsu OEM is recommended, or an OEM rebuild kit would be recommended. Braided stainless lines are also recommended to eliminate flex in the hoses and subsequent spongy pedal feel.

Don't drive the car at all till the drag issue is sorted!
You'll kill the syncros in short order.


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PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2014 8:06 am 
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CSM Junkie

Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2011 6:27 pm
Posts: 526
Location: Lake in the hills, IL
Appreciate the fast replies! Its strange it was driving fine for few months and now need to bleed again. The last thing I tried replacing to see was the problem was the master so ill give the bleeding a shot again and adjust pedal. It would save a bunch time! I had drop fuel tank again to add some an fittings and waiting to weld something so ill have wait few days to try shifting. Ill update soon I can, im quite anxious to drive a fast car again! Tired of the pickup and compass :)

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Speed kills!! Drive a Honda & live forever!


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PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2014 12:52 am 
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CSM Junkie

Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2011 6:27 pm
Posts: 526
Location: Lake in the hills, IL
ok update so today a buddy came over, so much better having company. fuel tank back up. Anyways to recap, i have new master,slave,line, no leaks, bled, adjusted. i tried today to start and shift into gear after bleeding and adjusting still no good, grinds in gear and when clutch pressed in all way in gear and start car it pulls.

ok, so tranny dropped, i put comp ball and fork in. TOB appears good no noise spins fine so i left alone.

took off pressure plate, clutchnet 4puck unsprung disc looks good still lotta meat..

flywheel looks feels smooth

pressure plate appears fine, but looking where the disc pads sit it feels a even groove around the pressure plate. would this make difference?? im not sure on the xtd stage 4 pp is there a higher groove on the inside of the pp circle?
or is the pp surface suppose to be even across??

any ideals, help?! thats it for tonight, feeling accomplished yet puzzled.

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Speed kills!! Drive a Honda & live forever!


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PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2014 2:38 am 
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CSM Junkie

Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2011 6:27 pm
Posts: 526
Location: Lake in the hills, IL
ok after discussing with my friend iv come to a possible conclusion, please if anyone can please chime in

iv know people and my friend also running southbend and act PP with the clutch i have no problems.

ok my theory is my xtd stage 4 pp has a groove because the metal on the clutch net disc is stronger causing the pp to give first? would the smallest amount of groove on pp from the disc cause my problems?

the reason is i think the xtd disc if i had used that was suppose to eventuall give first before the pp causing slippage hence clutch change job.

think this is my cause and get a new pp? and i scrapped my other pp, correct me if im wrong, but the pp surface is suppose to be even and smooth and no disc pad groove on the pp surface?

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Speed kills!! Drive a Honda & live forever!


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PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2014 7:27 am 
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I know that if the disk doesn't slide easily on the input shaft splines, you'll experience the symptoms you're describing.

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PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2014 11:03 am 
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CSM Junkie

Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2011 6:27 pm
Posts: 526
Location: Lake in the hills, IL
thanks, yea im gonna grease the shaft and tob again before putting back in. i was curious about the pp clutch combo, leaning towards bad pp? iv never had a pp that went bad, besides one completly cracking. but the pp diffently has a groove from the clutch pads and the clutch still meaty. i wonder if the clutchnet was stronger then pp, causing it to groove. i just didnt think that would make a difference, but maybe? i know if clutch pad goes it slips...just feeling confused, lol. I just trying avoid buying another pp, but thats only thing left. i still have order some new strut tops, so have a day or so to decide...

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Speed kills!! Drive a Honda & live forever!


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PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2014 10:28 pm 
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The happy administrator
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Joined: Tue Apr 20, 2004 3:20 pm
Posts: 5583
Location: Wisconsin
Did you stick a hardened washer under the pivot? I had that recommended to me by an old dsm pro so I did it, never had problems with clutch throw.

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Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
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Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd


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PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2014 11:00 pm 
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CSM Junkie

Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2011 6:27 pm
Posts: 526
Location: Lake in the hills, IL
yea, it had a metal washer. the fork and ball looked good, but i replaced with the comp fork and ball. i took off the new ball plastic washer and put in the metal one. i had to order two new strut tops, but im leaning towards the pressure plate being bad. the flywheel was resurfaced and has no groove like the pressure plate has.. i found a used act 2600 i got dirt cheap, just waiting on shipping since racine a few hours away. so hopefull that fixes my problem,cause thats the only thing left.. just never had a bad pressure plate before so hopefully

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Speed kills!! Drive a Honda & live forever!


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PostPosted: Thu May 22, 2014 8:04 am 
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CSM Junkie

Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2011 6:27 pm
Posts: 526
Location: Lake in the hills, IL
so yesterday i got my act2600 pp in mail. friend came over, we put that all back together and it shifts better than before. im so happy i can shift again! i've never had a bad pp before besides one completly spitting on another build. im gonna micrometer it. The difference of groove is noticeable but very small, just wierd no slipping. because clutch loses meat slips, but it was great so figured the difference in pp would make it shift but slip. o well its done. just need to get my strut tops in mail. buckle and tighten everything, drivers equal axles, tires, fluids, weld couple seat studs and transfer plates :) later need reweld in ic pipe extension to clear firewall, make tac work. anyways happy mood!

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Speed kills!! Drive a Honda & live forever!


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