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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 12:18 am 
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Location: Atlanta, Georgia
I just came across a nice write up on motor oils that Forced Performance has in a pdf on there site. I found it when on the dsm FP black page.

Anyway, they bring up Brad Penn oil and a couple other brands that I am not too familiar with. Cheaper than Mobile 1 and according to there them superior for our modified turbo 4g63s. It definitely peaks my interest, because Mobile is now equal to Royal Purples price around where I live.

http://store.forcedperformance.net/merc ... =DSM-Turbo

Pdf link to write up on this page.........

Anyone use this oil?

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Current project - 4G63 street legal rail.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 12:22 am 
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Location: San Diego, CA.
It's great oil, but totally not worth the money in my opinion. I would use Valvoline VR-1 Racing Oil or Diesel oil, like the Delo Grade stuff. It has lots of Zinc in it, and that's what you want.

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91 GSX - 511fwhp and 352 lb/ft 25psi 110 octane, 7.68 @ 95.9mph 1/8th 21psi 91 octane, 11.93 @ 112.9mph, 117.7mph best trap speed, 20psi 91 octane
98 Volvo S70 T5 - DD

http://www.facebook.com/captaintonus


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 12:41 am 
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Interesting. for the sake of info for the thread.
I saw Summit Racing had Brad Penn Grade 1 for $7/quart.

What does the VR oil go for ?

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Current project - 4G63 street legal rail.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 1:02 am 
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Quote:
Interesting. for the sake of info for the thread.
I saw Summit Racing had Brad Penn Grade 1 for $7/quart.

What does the VR oil go for ?
It's about $4-5 a quart, and you can buy it at any auto parts store.

_________________
91 GSX - 511fwhp and 352 lb/ft 25psi 110 octane, 7.68 @ 95.9mph 1/8th 21psi 91 octane, 11.93 @ 112.9mph, 117.7mph best trap speed, 20psi 91 octane
98 Volvo S70 T5 - DD

http://www.facebook.com/captaintonus


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 7:35 am 
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Some call me a god
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Location: Seattle, WA
I run Brad Penn 20-50, that's not saying much but I've also never had anything oil related fail either [-o<

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89 Mirage Billet 20g 63t 12.4@120 417whp 400wtq @ English Racing.
89 Colt GT E316g
06 Silverado SS
07 ZX6R


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 8:43 am 
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CSM Junkie
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Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
I'm a horrible person. My cars usually get the cheapest oil I can find, and the cheapest filter.

Not much to worry about when you're barely knocking on 200whp, lol.

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Early 2000's: 1992 Summit sedan - 14.1 @ 100.9mph w/ 155/80 13s
2012: 1989 Dodge Colt GT Turbo - 14.9 @ 100mph, 10psi/s16G


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 9:20 am 
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Quote:
I'm a horrible person. My cars usually get the cheapest oil I can find, and the cheapest filter.
I've always used cheapo filters. I'm making ~450whp on 91 octane, and I beat the ever-loving piss out of my car every time I drive it. I also have over 50,000 miles on a race motor, and as far as I can tell it's still going strong. I always used to run normal Castrol GTX in it, but then when I got a ball-bearing turbo I decided to use something with more Zinc, hence the VR-1 stuff.

_________________
91 GSX - 511fwhp and 352 lb/ft 25psi 110 octane, 7.68 @ 95.9mph 1/8th 21psi 91 octane, 11.93 @ 112.9mph, 117.7mph best trap speed, 20psi 91 octane
98 Volvo S70 T5 - DD

http://www.facebook.com/captaintonus


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 10:08 am 
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Location: Atlanta, Georgia
I can def say using cheap oil is better than using a cheap filter. I use wix filters and my oil never gets dirty on my Tacoma. A little different since its not turbocharged, but it literally takes 10k miles for the oil to actually look dirty compared to even using medium grade filters.

Regarding some of you using the cheap stuff, I'm sure a lot of it has to do with how you treat it... Like letting the engine warm up/cool down etc. even with 200hp.

I may look into the VR stuff when it gets time to get my buggy running. Actually maybe even for my Tacoma too, why not right? For that price...I've been using mobile1 this whole time

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Current project - 4G63 street legal rail.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 8:27 pm 
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Word to the wise for catalytic converter longevity. The higher performance oils with Zinc and other additives for reducing wear, actually speed up the decay of your catalytic converter. These oils would be considered Race Only, less you remove your catalytic converter on your street driven engine. In theory.

I switched to Brad Penn 10w40 last season. Contain no detergency and I do have a catalytic converter. Beware this oil will not clean the inside of your motor.

I did notice that the oil in my pan had me scrutinizing the effects, as it peeled back to the pan. It was like watching a sheet of water, it was literally not sticking the way you would thing it would. This was after a full season of driving, winter storage, then a short spring usage before the BIG tear down and refresh; still ongoing. I suspect the usual fuel shed was a part of this condition. No debris in my oil, and that's good considering the fact that I have not done the basic clutch switch mod - wire it so you don't have to push in the pedal to start the motor. This would make my engines thrust bearing surfaces, love me that much more! I have the uber stiff MB1-HDSS ACT 2100 pressure plate and clutch combination. I haven't felt anything stiffer yet, but I'm limited in the clutch plate combinations I have experienced in my automotive career.

So far so good, with the limited street driving I have done with my engine setup.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 8:30 pm 
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What's a catalytic converter?

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91 GSX - 511fwhp and 352 lb/ft 25psi 110 octane, 7.68 @ 95.9mph 1/8th 21psi 91 octane, 11.93 @ 112.9mph, 117.7mph best trap speed, 20psi 91 octane
98 Volvo S70 T5 - DD

http://www.facebook.com/captaintonus


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 8:35 pm 
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The Silent Administrator
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Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
:snky:


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 9:24 pm 
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Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Oh yea, I forgot about the cat part. Ill leave my toyota alone then.

Flying Eagle, Im sort of confused of your opinion of the oil. It sounded like you weren't sure if it that great of oil but had it in the engine for a year or so sitting. maybe because of the "semi-synthetic" part breaking down?

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Current project - 4G63 street legal rail.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 6:17 am 
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I would say I'm leaning towards the positive side. Wish I had a chemical analysis setup, to actually critique the oil poured from the bottle and what was left in the mix afterwards. Running a detergent oil will be my next step, whenever the car hits the road again. The amount of zinc and other additives, make them race only and hard to find some of the better imported oils too, because of import restrictions. I have wondered if diesel oil would be any better for a catalytic on a gasoline engine, story for another day, but also not likely good for them either. It's good these threads pop up every once and a while because oil makeup keeps changing so quickly. Keeping abreast of new developments is key for high high output motors and the longevity of their lubrication system.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 7:36 am 
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Some call me a god
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Location: Seattle, WA
Quote:
What's a catalytic converter?
What he said.

_________________
89 Mirage Billet 20g 63t 12.4@120 417whp 400wtq @ English Racing.
89 Colt GT E316g
06 Silverado SS
07 ZX6R


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 10:53 pm 
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Negative Nancy

Joined: Fri Jul 08, 2005 12:50 am
Posts: 1540
Location: Falling Waters, Wv 25419
Who Makes Super Tech Walmart Motor Oil?



Answer


Super Tech motor oil is made by Pennzoil/Quaker State. This is a brand that is sold by Walmart. It is often that a large store, such as Walmart, will contract a manufacturer to make something and label it with their own label.

This is what I always use. Less than 12.50 for 5 quart bottle. Havoline a few years ago used to make it for them.


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