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Post subject: Re: Transmission Swap
PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013
Page-3

No one answered my question under Transmission Swap, So I re-titled my Post to my question:


Well I finally got the transmission off, installed the 2.85mm thick washer under the pivot ball, and reinstalled the transmission and hydraulic line only. It seems to go into all 5 gears, but not reverse. I also was trying to adjust the pedal per Jack's Transmission video, but ran into a problem. When I screw the adjustment rod out (clockwise), the slave cylinder never would stop pushing the rod "out" (toward the driver). Then I adjusted the rod counter clockwise, so the pedal was toward the floor as far as it will go. When I tried to move the slave cylinder, it moved toward the engine, so the bleeder valve in the master cylinder was still not closed. Is it possible that my 1989 dodge colt will not adjust? Jack's transmission video was for a 2g DSM transmission.

Can anyone help? Do I need to remove the transmission again, a install another washer on top of the other washer?

Post subject: Re: Transmission Swap
PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 10:07 pm
Page-3

Well, I went ahead and took the transmission out today and installed another washer under the washer I already installed. The two washers together total 4.78mm. I then put the transmission back and connected the slave cylinder. With the pedal adjusted all the way toward the floor, the slave rod still travels by pushing with hand toward the engine. I give up Tomorrow, I will finish putting the rest of the car back together and see how it shifts with the motor running.

Does anyone know why I am having this problem?? I already did everything in the yourtube video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYJxQyjIhUw

So you mean you extended the rod on the master as long as it will go, but the slave piston still pushes in?

You shouldn't have 4.78mm of washers under the pivot ball unless you removed 4.78mm of material from the flywheel.

_________________
"A good day racing is better than a great day fishing!"

Yes, I adjusted the pedal all the way, and still could move the slave cylinder. The reason I installed the washer, was because the gears would not even go into gear, and my old Act 2600 pressure plate and 6 disc clutch had the same washer (2.85mm) under the pivot ball. And, other forums also stated to install a washer under the pivot ball.

After watching the youtube video, I still could not get my pedal and slave cylinder to work properly (by pushing the slave cylinder with hand). So, yesterday and today I installed another 1.93mm washer under the pivot ball (thinking the 2.85 was not thick enough). I just started the car on jacks, and the car will go into gear, but the wheel turns with the clutch pushed all the way in.

I guess, now I will adjust the pedal all the way toward the driver, and bleed the system for a third time. If that does not work, I am not sure what to do.

Do you have any ideas?

Yes, Extended slave rod.

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product ... t=0&page=1

This will increase travel to disengage.

_________________
89 Mirage Billet 20g 63t 12.4@120 417whp 400wtq @ English Racing.
89 Colt GT E316g
06 Silverado SS
07 ZX6R

Thats a band aid, I would not recommend going that route. It may have been covered already, but was the flywheel stepped correctly?

No more of a band-aid than installing a washer under the pivot ball which most people do. I think he is running a ACT flywheel so his step should be fine.

I also seen something in his previous thread about drilling a location for the slave cylinder and also drilling or making brackets for the shift linkage, may want to send us some pics of your set-up and flywheel if you can.

_________________
89 Mirage Billet 20g 63t 12.4@120 417whp 400wtq @ English Racing.
89 Colt GT E316g
06 Silverado SS
07 ZX6R

I couldn't agree with you more. Everytime someone has a clutch engagement issue its usually install/user error. These cars have a decent hydraulic clutch set up, I've never had a single problem on at least 20 or so cars. I have never used any work around, shims, extended rods, etc. known/new oem will work every time! Problems like these always come back to one simple fix most the time. I guess next step for him would be to confirm tthat the clutch fork isn't bent.

Shimming the Pivot Ball will have nothing to do with it not going into reverse with the motor off. You should be able to do that WITHOUT the clutch. If you can't get reverse with the motor off, there is a linkage/engagement issue or something wrong in the tranny.

I can jump into any of my DSM/CSM's and run through the gears without a clutch with the motor off.

_________________
Thom
1991 GVR4 1025/2000 (PTE 1200's, 16g, DSMLink v3, gm-maf, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's, EVO VIII Wheels)
1992 GVR4 866/1000 (getting everything from above)

I started with a non-turbo transmission, an ACT 2600 Pressure Plate, a 6 disc non-sprung disc, and a standard Solid OEM flywheel (18 lbs). The non-turbo transmission did have a washer under the pivot ball.

I now have a rebuilt stage-III turbo transmission, a South Bend SS-X Pressure Plate, a Ceramic/Kevlar dual friction disc, and an ACT Xact Streetlight flywheel (12.5 lbs). I installed the same washer under the pivot ball on the Turbo transmission, then added a 1.93 washer under the the original washer, thinking it might help. They are now brand new, 0 miles.

I did have to re-drill one hole in the bracket that holds the cable to the transmission, so the bracket would be vertical, like the original set up on the non-turbo transmission. I did not change anything on the hydraulic master clutch or the slave clutch.

It might be possible that the ACT Xact Streetlight flywheel is thinner than the original flywheel. Which would make sense.

My linkage could be off, but nothing on the linkage has changed after swapping the clutch, flywheel and transmission. However, I still ca not get into reverse.

It bothered me that I could not adjust my pedal, or clutch master rod enough to get the slave cylinder to NOT be pushed by hand toward the engine, which means the bleeder has not been reached yet. However, when I hold the clutch down, it tightens firm. Which means it is not traveling far enough. Also, when I start the car, and shift into 1st and leave the clutch pushed to the floor, the wheels turn.

I just spoke to Tim Zimmerman, who rebuilt my transmission. He thinks I have a hydraulic problem and need to replace the master and slave cylinder. It has a Lucos Master Cylinder. So, I just ordered a master cylinder MR244839 and a slave cylinder MD733620. After I swap these parts, I will report.

When I upgraded my clutch plate and clutch pressure plate to an ACT HD (2100), my OEM master and OEM slave (possibly with 190K on them )with perfect bleed (excellent height for a stock pressure plate and CFDF setups) would en/disengage just an inch off the floor with the carpet rolled back. They were not up to the task of a heavy pressure plate, period. I installed a new OEM master, OEM slave, and braided stainless clutch line, and bled them. I now have pedal en/disengagement of the pressure plate from the clutch/flywheel at about the halfway pedal travel mark. Assuming I don't wear out my pedal assembly and following a little adjustment with the push rod to the master, I have been driving like this for 2 seasons.

I just received my master and slave cylinders, and will install them tomorrow. You said you installed a braided stainless clutch line between the MC and SL. Is the braided stainless line less deflective on high psi, rather than installing a solid steel line? I thought the rubber inside the braided steel would deflect slightly more than a solid steel line. Your response would be appreciated. Many other forums also stated use of the braided stainless line.

Well, I believe the Technafit is a plastic sleeve internally or some such liner with braided outer shell to keep any expansion (versus flex which is what you need as the engine bounces around, more so with stock rubber mounts versus polyurethane) to a minimum. Solid up to a point is perfect, but where you need flex is the section that needs to be braided. I believe most braided lines are full braided lengths, because of the multi-fitment options that it represents. The Technafit was a little too long. Couldn't hurt to find out how long various lines are, so you don't end up with a bunch of extra like I have. I installed this line for reference: https://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/product ... t=0&page=1

Thanks for your advise. I went to "The Wizard" auto shop in Douglasville, Georgia and purchased a 60" long single Teflon with braided SS sleeve hose. I took off the entire old line with the master and slave cylinder still attached, along with my new master and slave and had them make me a hose to fit my application. They charged me $60.00, which is not too bad for such a long hose. "The Wizard" had made me 4 brake braided SS lines last year, which has also worked very well. I will try to put the system back on the car this weekend.

Last weekend I "bench bled" the new master cylinder with the new slave cylinder connected with one ss teflon braided hose. I even bled the slave cylinder 4 or 5 times to make sure no air was in the system. I re-installed the new system (without removing the braided ss hose). But I am having the same problem. The pressure plate will not fully dis-engage. I guess, now I will make a longer slave rod and install it this weekend.