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Is there an option on Alternator upgrade since im due to replacing mine is there an upgrade option for the CSM? Can you use alternator from the Galant Vr4?

Which motor?

For the 4g15, not sure. 75A stock in 89 FSM.
For the 4g61/63, any 4g63 1G style alternator should fit. Order a 75A or higher as they came on VR4's and probably on the 1.6L DOHC IIRC. Confirmed in the FSM Page 182/328 Electrical manual.
75A for the 4g15, 4g61 and 4g61t. 4g61 NA got the 65A.

If you want to stop overheating an alternator and you have the turbocharged motor of not, make sure the heat shields on the exhaust stay installed, or upgraded.
The excess heat will fry the voltage regulator/diode array.

If you have a DOHC motor then you can use the Galant VR4 alternator, they are 90A.

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91 GSX - 511fwhp and 352 lb/ft 25psi 110 octane, 7.68 @ 95.9mph 1/8th 21psi 91 octane, 11.93 @ 112.9mph, 117.7mph best trap speed, 20psi 91 octane
98 Volvo S70 T5 - DD

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Sweet, could not remember if they went that high or not.
Go as high an Amperage as you can get.

what is was th stock amperes for the 4g15 motor?

It showed 75, but I am fairly certain it was available lower than that, 65 AMP is the lowest I've seen on FI recently.

any brand that you prefer or would recommend

As far as I know, they are only made by Mitsubishi, you can get them re-manufactured(re-built) by any parts store, as they are a turn in(core) item. The voltage regulators on them suck, as I went through 2 in 1 year. All this, with stock heat shields in place. Sometimes you get lucky and they last forever. Just get one with as long of warranty as possible.

BTW leaky engines cause oil/grim buildup, which can also reduce the life, but yea the voltage regulators are the main cause of death.

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I'd recommend buying one brand new from Mitsu, but it will be very expensive.

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91 GSX - 511fwhp and 352 lb/ft 25psi 110 octane, 7.68 @ 95.9mph 1/8th 21psi 91 octane, 11.93 @ 112.9mph, 117.7mph best trap speed, 20psi 91 octane
98 Volvo S70 T5 - DD

http://www.facebook.com/captaintonus

how about those that are being sold "NEW" brandnew and not remanufactured. Are those ok? (remy, ultima)

They're aftermarket chinese junk. I wouldn't use one. You're better off with a re-manufactured unit if you ask me.

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91 GSX - 511fwhp and 352 lb/ft 25psi 110 octane, 7.68 @ 95.9mph 1/8th 21psi 91 octane, 11.93 @ 112.9mph, 117.7mph best trap speed, 20psi 91 octane
98 Volvo S70 T5 - DD

http://www.facebook.com/captaintonus

Find out if it is the brushes that have just worn out, or if it is the diode array. Then take it to a shop that remanufactures alternators, and have them correct it with Mitsu parts. You can buy the brushes or diode arrays separate from places like JNZ but the pricing is close to a new alternator. See what the reman shops can do in this regard and you keep the best Mitsu parts of the alternator.

I had no leaks, all the shields, and a new battery. I replace 5 "re-manned" units in 6 months before I switched to a mitsu unit. I've had it for 8 years, still works great.

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'18 X5
'19 M5 Comp
'07 997 Turbo, 1144WHP/1001WTQ
'17 Fiesta ST

guys, what would be the biggest benefits or running a higher amp alternator, aside from putting sound system etc...

13.5-14v'ish is always going to be the output, but if you have a higher output alternator(in amps), your putting less strain on the alternator to do work (watts). In theory, if you put a higher amp alt. in a car, you just add to the reliability. You might gain a little bit in charge if there is a huge voltage dip, but I haven't played around with this stuff to see the real world effect of resistance(load) on an alternator.

Keep note though, a 90a alternator doesn't always output 90a, and with that... the more load you put on the alternator, the more mechanical resistance you put on the engine(horsepower/torque).
What alternator companies don't post is there efficiencies. Therefor you may gain or loose hp with different alternators.

Also another thing to keep in mind(which you will only have to worry about if you want to use close to 90a) is that you not only put a load on the alternator but the wiring, and fuzes. Most likely the wiring is the same. But if it isn't and you start blowing fuzes under a higher load(example you have a mad sound system turned all the way up, and you have a toaster oven in your car). If you just replace it with a higher value fuze, you may cause an electrical fire if you don't do the calculations for wire sizes.

I just explained a whole lot of nothing, but hopefully it gives you a better understanding.


All in all if you can get a higher amp alternator, and you intend on using it for the same loads as you have now, I say go for it, It can only help with reliability. And your fuzes will save your butt if the load gets high anyways.

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