4g61t.org

after much searching ive found that it is nearly impossible to buy one, and looks like most people here make their own and it is much cheaper. so i wanted to see if anyone has pictures of theirs to post up. and i noticed some of the ones you can buy from whiteline have a bend in them, is that needed or does a straight bar do?

first question is.. are you doing the awd swap with a ford rear end? if so then there are lots of panhard bars out there to buy.. here are a few.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/jm-panhard-0509.html

http://www.cjponyparts.com/bmr-tubular- ... 12/p/PHB6/

http://www.ipdusa.com/products/5948/109 ... 900-models


Steve

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Steve 89 colt 2.3 stroker stock top end. evo3@20 psi 13.489@99.30mph 3/10 2012
On drag radials.auto trans.launching @ 5 psi and no traction thru 2nd.

nah keeping it fwd.

then there is really no need for the bar.. it is used to keep the rear end from moving side to side.


Steve

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Steve 89 colt 2.3 stroker stock top end. evo3@20 psi 13.489@99.30mph 3/10 2012
On drag radials.auto trans.launching @ 5 psi and no traction thru 2nd.

Straight bar is what we have from the factory, no need to clear anything with a bent bar.
If you have a C50/60/70 sedan and not the AWD solid axle rear of the C80 hatch, then if the car is lowered more than say 1.5",
you will need to realign the rear axle due to it being shunted over, as part of its side to side arc of travel that follows the line
of the panhard rod. Under extreme circumstances where tire clearance issues are at play due to rim choice, you can get rubbing.
I suggest, and others have concluded just as the users with FWD DSM's, that an adjustable panhard rod is required for dropping
these Mitsu's 1.5" or more. You are essentially making sure the rear axle is tracking exactly where it originally did from the factory,
but with the vehicle at a new ride height.

does it mean that adjustable panhard rods are needed to lowered csm's.

Yes, and no. Most drivers will not notice the track moving over a little in the rear if the car is lowered a bit.
You should realign the rear axle or at least check the rear tires centers in relation to the centerline of the car
to find out if the axle is shunted to the right, and by how much, considering the dropped height of the chassis.
To have a proper alignment and high speed stability, it would make sense that the rear axle is centered at
the vehicles standing/riding height, correct? Without the rear being centered, there has to be play on what
thrust the rear end has on the vehicle and corresponding counter by the front wheel/steering to compensate.
Like bump steer, there are unwanted effects as the suspension geometry is changed from stock points and
angles.

yeah makes sense why when car is full of people too that one wheel will rub