Specializing in the 3g CSM
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2003 7:02 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 21, 2002 7:00 pm
Posts: 1796
Location: Cardiff by the Sea, SoCal USA
This is what you need to do in order to install a TD05 16G turbo charger on your 4G61T C/M. If you plan on running this turbo and don't plan on making your car a full drag queen, keep the 6cm exhaust housing. With a 7cm housing expect turbo lag in the area of 5k RPM. This write-up is also assuming you're going to be upgrading to either a 1G or 2G (better) exhaust manifold. This is all from recent memory and won’t be the best, but it should help you avoid any major snags.

First step is to drain both the oil and coolant from the car. Be sure to remove the oil filter like a normal oil change. You may need the extra room. Next disconnect the o2 sensor, remove all intake hoses, coolant hoses, and the fan shroud. Next you’ll want to remove the radiator. You can perform the removal and install with the radiator in place like I did, but you’ll also beat the hell out of it.

Remove the heat shield from the exhaust manifold if you still have it. Next, apply a spray on super lubricant/penetrate to the 4 bolts holding the turbo to the manifold, all the nuts on the exhaust manifold, all the nuts and bolts on and around the downpipe, and anything else in general you want to remove. Allow this to set in over night and spray them down again the next day before you start the removal. This should help avoid broken bolts and use of unnecessary force. Stop for the day at this point.

First step for the next day is to unbolt the downpipe from the o2 sensor housing. If you have the stock downpipe you’ll also need to remove the bracket holding it to the block. Feel free to discard this since it won’t be needed when you upgrade to an aftermarket one. While you’re down there remove the oil return pipe. Next step is to free the other turbo lines from the block and unbolt it from the manifold. Then remove the exhaust manifold from the block.

All the nuts, bolts, and studs are mostly hardened steel and can be reused if you didn’t ruin them trying to get them off. If some appear too rusted it’s a good idea to just replace them. If you want to replace all of them expect to pay around $60 or so for factory units. ARP parts are more. Be sure to ask for 1G parts despite what manifold you plan to use.

For a list of most of the parts you’ll need to perform the install, check out jmauld’s post at: http://www.4g61t.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=418
This list does not include any of the nuts, bolts or studs you may want to replace from the previous paragraph. It is also missing the two banjo bolts and copper washers for the oil feed line, and the part number for the coolant return line. Someone with CAP’s or your local dealership should be able to help you out.

To begin the install you will need to start off with modifying one part. The coolant feed line, part# MD140476, is not going to fit and needs to be cut. Then entire middle section needs to be removed so you can use the two separate ends. Where you cut it will depend on how you want to attach your new coolant hose. There are two ways to ensure your hose will stay mounted when you put it on. Either have the pipes beaded or flared. If you plan to bead it either with a bead roller or running a line of JB Weld on the pipe, I recommend cutting the pipes about the middle of the bend. That way it gives some direction to the hose. If you plan to flare it you’ll need to cut it so all you have are straight sections. A flaring tool won’t work otherwise. You also don’t need to flare the pipes anymore than 1/16â€

Jason Veraldi

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