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Ok now I know out tie rods bolt on the wrong side of the hub on the galants the 4gs and talon now what would be needed to be done to the hub to make it work? would it be as simple as retapping the hole for the tierod to sit in the right place or would that whole arm on the hub need to be bent so it would be in the right place?

I'm not sure what could be done?

Maybe find a tierod end that is not tapered, or either get it welded and redrilled with the taper on the other side.

Ok if i haven't asked enough stupid questions already on this topic heres another one. Knowing that the galant hubs are tapered the other way wouldn't it be possible to also use the galant tie-rod end ? (just un screw the colt one and screw the galant one on?) and set your toe accordingly? From what TDrally is saying thought these Colt vista hubs sound very tempting I'm excited to go out looking for them now... But just an alternate suggestion has this been tried before?

I thought I would quote this email I received its from the guy who runs the following website he gave me some feedback on our brake options.

http://www.vysor.com/lancerproject.htm

[quote:26vuc8cd]I know the hub problem. You need to replace the current knuckle with a newer type that has the easy change rotor system. The main issue is the placement of the steering arm so you don't get bump steer problems. Camber is easy to address, see below. Outer CV splines are the same. Your car has 4x4.50" hubs. From what I recall of the 92 knuckle design, you could probably

a) use 93-96 Colt / Mirage (4x100mm pattern) knuckes, refitted with 4x4.50" Galant / Vista 4WD hubs. This provides the base for bigger rotors (250-275mmx24mm ventilated) and the caliper bracket mounts are the same. Has 74x40mm bearings.

b) use 88-92 Vista 4WD wagon knuckles, complete. The 2WD wagon had the same knuckle style as your car, but the 4WD was different, with 266mm disks. Has 80x40mm bearings.

c) use 93-96 Expo wagon (2WD or AWD are the same) knuckles. Also has the bigger 80x40mm bearings and 250x24mm disks. This is probably the best solution, as the tierod end is on top of the steering arm, like on your car (as I recall). This is what I wll soon have in my project car, but with the 5x4.50" Talon hubs fitted.

You'll want to locate the rear disk hubs and calipers from the 90-92 Colt
200 for any competetion vehicle (same calipers as the Talon, but the disks
are slightly thinner.

In all cases, you will have to compare the position of the steering arm in
making the selection. Then there's the question of camber.

a) slot the lower strut (not knuckle) holes. You can do up to about 3mm to
increase the -ive camber (if the new knuckle makes it +ive) and

b) slot the 2 (or 3) strut upper mount holes (in the strut tower) for more
camber adjustment, also about 3mm. You also have to make sure that the bolts
don't move in the slot (fiddle, fiddle, weld...)

regards,
Stewart DIBBS

[/quote:26vuc8cd]

Hope this helps...

well guys i am not sure if you get evo lancers over there but i have evo one hubs disks and calipers. the tie rod end is upside down but it is a very small sacrifice for excellent brakes! these you can only run 15inch rims on and they have twin spot calipers.

Not to beat a dead horse here but I was at the wreckers today I finally dound a set of caliper/brakets I found a 93 Vista 2.4L. If it wasn't like -10 I might have scammed the motor/tranny. But I was looking at the front hubs again and they are VERY VERY close to the hubs we want easy to swap brakes the Tie rod mounts on the top side look good however I didn't have a measuring device with me to check all the dimensions but a good look at them I think this is the key for the front brakes on this unit I just dropped all my money on Turbo brakes but I think this may have been the better way... Go out to your local yard and check them out...

well going to be doing the swap from a 1gen tel and i am planing on doing a full write up on this so when i get started ill let everyone know

_________________
Member 209
89 Colt GT RIP
92 Mirage 4dr
91 Celica
http://members.sounddomain.com/gage1
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Berserko noted that a lot of mitsu's use different knuckles but use the same hub. Which leads me back to my questions of how feasible would it be to put a galant (or any std mitsu hub) into the mirage knuckle.

Tim, care to ask your brake guy if he thinks it's doable. One point to make is that our hub/knuckle combination uses two small bearings, while the galant hub/knuckle combination uses one larger bearing.

I have an email in my archives from Stewart on this exact topic I'll dig it up and post it..

Here is what Stewart said on the topic:

I know the hub problem. You need to replace the current knuckle with a newer
type that has the easy change rotor system. The main issue is the placement
of the steering arm so you don't get bump steer problems. Camber is easy to
address, see below. Outer CV splines are the same. Your car has 4x4.50"
hubs. From what I recall of the 92 knuckle design, you could probably

a) use 93-96 Colt / Mirage (4x100mm pattern) knuckes, refitted with 4x4.50"
Galant / Vista 4WD hubs. This provides the base for bigger rotors
(250-275mmx24mm ventilated) and the caliper bracket mounts are the same. Has
74x40mm bearings.
b) use 88-92 Vista 4WD wagon knuckles, complete. The 2WD wagon had the same
knuckle style as your car, but the 4WD was different, with 266mm disks. Has
80x40mm bearings.
c) use 93-96 Expo wagon (2WD or AWD are the same) knuckles. Also has the
bigger 80x40mm bearings and 250x24mm disks. This is probably the best
solution, as the tierod end is on top of the steering arm, like on your car
(as I recall). This is what I wll soon have in my project car, but with the
5x4.50" Talon hubs fitted.

You'll want to locate the rear disk hubs and calipers from the 90-92 Colt
200 for any competetion vehicle (same calipers as the Talon, but the disks
are slightly thinner.

In all cases, you will have to compare the position of the steering arm in
making the selection. Then there's the question of camber.

a) slot the lower strut (not knuckle) holes. You can do up to about 3mm to
increase the -ive camber (if the new knuckle makes it +ive) and
b) slot the 2 (or 3) strut upper mount holes (in the strut tower) for more
camber adjustment, also about 3mm. You also have to make sure that the bolts
don't move in the slot (fiddle, fiddle, weld...)

jmauld: ptifre has GVR4 4 disc on his Colt Gt, he has to run 15' Settlies in winter. I'm considering the GVR4 mod but cant seem to able to find all the right pieces.

_________________
92' Dodge Colt 200GT - 4G63T - Taking Offers.

They cause bumpsteer that why we don't want them... Their not even remotely similar hubs for our car the cause issues there are artilcles around on this. It has be done many times befre...

i think im gonna start saving for a CNC mill.....it may break the bank...but hey......a good machinist can make anything...all i need is the machining skills.....and ill make hubs for our cars with bolt on rotors....but only time will tell :-\

anyone else in on this?

_________________
I own a CSM.
I live my life 1 repair at a time.
Nothing matters...not my crew...my bills, nor my friends drama...
For those 10 months or less... I'm broke...

yeah, that has also crossed my mind before.

Just called the local junkyard. They have a '95 expo hub that I'm going to try out. Keep the fingers crossed.