Grab a sheet or rags and cover the top of the block. If you have some way of draining the block so coolant is much lower than the mating surface of the block to head, then you won't get coolant all down your head bolt holes (those must be blown clean!!) and down into the piston top area.
If you had leak down tester you could check things for sealing after installing a new belt, but if the motor locked up in any way while turning, then you do have a problem. 8V 4g15's were non-interference, 12V were indeed interference if memory serves me well after all this time without one of those motors.
Find a good head at a machine shop, or take it to one and get some valves, clean it up and re-install.
Just be sure to follow a proper procedure for releasing the head bolts. Check the manual for proper technique.
I like doing this:
Start at the outer most bolts and work your way in, like a circle getting smaller, and start with less than 1/4 turns for the first 3 passes until the pressure is released.
Putting the head back on, follow the torque sequence and check if they are stretch fit bolts/torque to yield or not. If they are, replacement is best. TTY have a degree they are torqued to in steps or as the final step, following an initial or build up sequence of lower torques.
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