WOW! Thanks for the info man. Much appreciated!Quote:
Pretty simple to replace.
Best to keep a 10mm flare nut wrench handy when removing your line and reinstalling it to the new slave.
If you are quick, and wear latex gloves, you can crack the metal inlet line loose - not enough to leak and proceed on with the 12mm retaining bolts.
Loosen the two 12mm bolts holding the slave to the transaxle case, and then undo the 10mm metal line nut.
Remove both 12mm bolts and swap in the new slave, careful not to cross thread the nut threads as it starts.
Install the two 12mm bolts, start the 10mm nut by hand, tighten the 12mm bolts when the nut is snugged up.
Double check to see if the fluid in the reservoir has gone down lower than the reservoir sits or not.
When bleeding the line, keep these steps in mind.
Fluid level at max line. Bleeder tight.
Pump clutch pedal and allow it to return slowly - hand pressure or foot as resistance.
(May have to pull it back manually)
Repeat 5-10 times.
Gravity bleed the line, for a minute or two and keep an eye on the fluid level. Close bleeder.
Open bleeder, press the clutch fork back into the slave/pushrod until it seats and hold it fully back. Close bleeder.
Gravity bleed or put a pry bar/block of wood between the clutch pedal and seat base to depress the pedal all the way to the floor. Crack open the bleeder, close it quickly.
Repeat until you have proper pedal feel.
Slight bit of slack - check spec in online FSM's -www.lilevo.com/Mirage/
Pedal pressure should feel like it engaged something and feel steady all the way till a few inches from the floor
If the pedal doesn't feel like it's engaging something, and steady feedback, you aren't engaging the TOB into the release fingers.
Best way to tell if the clutch is bled, visually, is to operate the clutch inside the car, while watching the clutch slave operate and the fork move.
See Jack's Transmissions site or youtube for a video on how to bleed/adjust a clutch system and search for some picture of proper angles for the DSM clutch fork, online.
Best to keep a 10mm flare nut wrench handy when removing your line and reinstalling it to the new slave.
If you are quick, and wear latex gloves, you can crack the metal inlet line loose - not enough to leak and proceed on with the 12mm retaining bolts.
Loosen the two 12mm bolts holding the slave to the transaxle case, and then undo the 10mm metal line nut.
Remove both 12mm bolts and swap in the new slave, careful not to cross thread the nut threads as it starts.
Install the two 12mm bolts, start the 10mm nut by hand, tighten the 12mm bolts when the nut is snugged up.
Double check to see if the fluid in the reservoir has gone down lower than the reservoir sits or not.
When bleeding the line, keep these steps in mind.
Fluid level at max line. Bleeder tight.
Pump clutch pedal and allow it to return slowly - hand pressure or foot as resistance.
(May have to pull it back manually)
Repeat 5-10 times.
Gravity bleed the line, for a minute or two and keep an eye on the fluid level. Close bleeder.
Open bleeder, press the clutch fork back into the slave/pushrod until it seats and hold it fully back. Close bleeder.
Gravity bleed or put a pry bar/block of wood between the clutch pedal and seat base to depress the pedal all the way to the floor. Crack open the bleeder, close it quickly.
Repeat until you have proper pedal feel.
Slight bit of slack - check spec in online FSM's -www.lilevo.com/Mirage/
Pedal pressure should feel like it engaged something and feel steady all the way till a few inches from the floor
If the pedal doesn't feel like it's engaging something, and steady feedback, you aren't engaging the TOB into the release fingers.
Best way to tell if the clutch is bled, visually, is to operate the clutch inside the car, while watching the clutch slave operate and the fork move.
See Jack's Transmissions site or youtube for a video on how to bleed/adjust a clutch system and search for some picture of proper angles for the DSM clutch fork, online.