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So I have a massive oil leak, I believe its comming from the front crank seal. I have it torn down to the point that im not sure of something. Does anyone know if the oil pan bolts bolt into the front crank seal plate? The plate has the oil filter on it etc. I need to know asap, as i deliver pizza and with no car=no money. If I have to remove the 3 or 4 oil pan bolts do I need a new oil pan gasket? The kit i have came with a gasket that looks like a set of legs, or sort of an upside down V, and the Dougnut looking one that goes around the crank behind the crank timing gear. It also came with silicone, is that what the silicone is for? the oil pan area? or does it need to go around the whole gasket?

Here is what the kit looks like

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinf ... cc=1207189

Any info asap is much appreciated, as i've got the car torn down a good bit right now.

Ben

Yes the oil pan has bolts that thread into the front cover. THey will need to come off. You will likely(and should) need to drop the oil pan and replace the gasket.

alright, ad do you know if the timing tensioner needs to be removed too? I have the bolts i know need to be out, out, just dont want to do extra work if its not needed.

The front cover will have to come all the way off in order to replace the front main seal. The timing belt and the associated tensioner(s) will have to be removed in order to take the cover off.

gotcha, thanks for the fast replies too man.

Not a problem. Good luck and stay warm!

RTV will be for the surface where the front main support meets the block, BUT only where the oil pan gasket will crosses over that meeting point. Kinda of like adding gasket maker/RTV in the bottom edge of a rocker cover gasket surface where two pieces join, down in the 90 joint. Same principle, to stop see pages through slight misalignment of assembled parts.

Anyone know off hand if you can remove the oil pan/replace it without having to remove the cross member? I tore the car completely down, in order to remove the plate. I can wiggle it easy now, but i believe the oil pickup tube is holding it there. The plate wont slide off of the crank. After looking at the gasket kit i have, it's probably where a tube bolts to the plate inside the oil pan.


Anyone ever tried doing this while the motor was still in the car? If so, have any tips?

Thanks for all the replies and texts from tkrperformance, and mirageman

The pan has to come off, so the crossmember has to come down .

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Early 2000's: 1992 Summit sedan - 14.1 @ 100.9mph w/ 155/80 13s
2012: 1989 Dodge Colt GT Turbo - 14.9 @ 100mph, 10psi/s16G

^^^

I snaked the 4g63t oil pan out with only removing the front two cross-member bolts, and loosening the rear two. This provided a couple extra inches so the pan could be spun around, kinda pivotal where the pickup tube is located, and then it comes out slightly sideways. Yeah, I know, terribly visual, but you don't have to take down the cross-member entirely. Heck, now that I think of it, I didn't even remove the rear mount thru-bolt! Oh well, it all worked out in the end, with minimal paint chippage.

Any progress with this?

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

not at the moment due to the weather, rain. forecast said snow, I'd have preferred that since it has to be cold either way...

Agreed, give me snow over rain anyday. I hate being wet.

thats what she said


Steve

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Steve 89 colt 2.3 stroker stock top end. evo3@20 psi 13.489@99.30mph 3/10 2012
On drag radials.auto trans.launching @ 5 psi and no traction thru 2nd.

lol I was going to start to remove the cross member and then the oil pan, then the rain again. right now its muddy and snowy though. tomorrow is supposed to be mostly clear and cold, so I'll have to see about it then. I did manage to snag some jack stands for 10 bux and delivered to the house.

I'll keep you all posted as it goes.