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Figured since i'll be at the parts store tomorrow afternoon collecting my parts I should make sure i Have the right size socket. Is it an 11mm 12 point socket? or 12mm 12 point socket?

Searched around for some head bolts and it came back saying they were 11mm. That right?

I thought they were hex head/allen head bolts. I have a bunch I use as engine stand bolts.

Part number MD998360 http://www.trupar.com/Mitsubishi-Wrench ... 998360.htm

11mm hex head socket possibly, but a male end hex head. It has been too long since I sized them and don't have that socket at home.
Got a dial caliper you can put in the hole in the bolt head and measure internal dimensions side to side?

just removed the head today. It was a male hex head which i was just lucky to have around. I bought a set of the 5 most common ones for my 4g93 head bolts. Turned out it was 12mm 12 point socket needed.

I'll have to check the size of the hex socket and see if it's an 11.

The gaskets are all new like someone has already changed the head gasket once, and not long ago. The gasket was fine looking, no tears etc. While taking off the head each bolt felt to be the same, except 2 bolts were noticeably looser, and felt to be about the same in tightness as well.

A friend says the heads probably fine, and that the 2 bolts were the cause of it. Guess I'll have to see. -- There was lots of oil in all of the head bolt holes, which he seems to think may have been from the first change. Lack of cleaning.

Make sure the head gets checked five ways for warp, and the bolt holes should be 100% cleaned of oil and debris before re-installation of new head bolts (new bolts if they are torque to yield).

The bolts could have been hydro locked and never reached proper clamping torque, they just would have gotten tight due to oil blockage. Some oil getting down in there is normal, while the engine is running/cycling, you just can't start that way during assembly.

well, im too broke to actually get the head checked out. I did put the head back on and torqued the bolts etc. I put it all in time, ran the belt had it setup to be tightened down, and now the fricken tensionor bolt broke/snapped off while i was tightening it down. And I diddnt over tighten it, it seems to have already been twisted too tight from the last fool who did this before me. Now I've got to try and get the rest of the bolt out and put another in. *sigh* nothing goes the way u need it to when you need things done like yesterday. There is a little bit of the bolt left out that might be able to be grabbed ahold of...but with my luck the motor will be needing pulled out to get a drill on it.

guess i'll keep u all posted, any other ideas of what could be tried short of pulling the motor?

Put a washer and nut overtop. Weld them to the portion remaining.

good idea. however i cant weld, and dont have the equipment LOL. I did end up just removing the mount bolts and using the hoist to lift the engine about 6 inches at an angle letting the tranny dip down, just enough to drill the bolt and then pound an easy out into it and use an adjustable wrench on the end to loosen the broken bolt out. worked perfect, better than i could have hoped. I just removed the axle nuts and let the axles slide in a little so i didnt have to remove them from the tranny. then put the engine in time, ran the belt and used an allen wrench head bolt with a lock washer.

After setting everything, i realized when i took it apart, whoever did this before me never used the tensionor spring correctly, it was just hanging there loose.... I guess they just tightened both bolts until the pully didnt move?

I work tomorrow/have things to do during the day, but wed I'm off again, and hope to finish it up. I'll keep u posted on how it turns out, and if i run into any other problems along the way LOL.

thanks again for the comments, help too.

It's what we are here for!