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Is there a specific way to install the oil pump on these things? Or has anyone had one fail on them? Do I need to prime the pump somehow before startup of a new engine? I just put it on and it seemed to work for like 50 miles, then the oil light came on. I rebuilt the engine and thought i would go with a full synthetic oil for mpgs, and talking to an amsoil rep (they make the stuff 1 mile from where i work) they had me use their full syn break in oil. this stuff http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/m ... -(sae-30)/ Now Im thinking that maybe the sensor is bad or that it just got too thin and isnt pumping. has anyone ever heard of this, or is the pump just shot? I have another all ready to put in, but am really hoping to not tear it all apart again. Thanks!

Remove your timing belt and attach a socket to your drill and spin the pump. Can you see oil squirting up in the head? That would be a good indication on whether or not the pump or sending unit are bad.

You could always install an actual oil pressure gauge. That would replace the sending unit and give you the true pressure.

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Thom
1991 GVR4 1025/2000 (PTE 1200's, 16g, DSMLink v3, gm-maf, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's, EVO VIII Wheels)
1992 GVR4 866/1000 (getting everything from above)

i took off the oil cap while it was running expecting to see oil shooting up but i didnt see much splashing around, there was oil, just not as much as i was expecting.

Then slap a gauge and sensor on there and get a reading as to the actual pressure. They are better than the dummy light anyway.

_________________
Thom
1991 GVR4 1025/2000 (PTE 1200's, 16g, DSMLink v3, gm-maf, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's, EVO VIII Wheels)
1992 GVR4 866/1000 (getting everything from above)

Sensor is just a spring and ball that lets off the seat around 0-5/7 psi or something low like that.

As thomcasey said, gauge it with a diag tool installed direct to the block via that port. Pay a few bucks for a mechanic to help you or buy the gauge and fittings to make it work.
Likely if you are aren't hearing nasting thumping or raspy noises from the block, everything is still okay or less than dead. No way to know until we know your cold pressure and hot pressures.

will do later today, have a sensor and a gauge laying around somewhere. thanks guys

checked it and its well over 100, my only gauge goes up to 100 and it pegged it. tried putting the original one back in and same reading, whats normal? Checked the relief valve and all seemed ok. I am going to put in a different relief valve and spring and see what that does. Is there some place in the head that might be plugged? I found the little screw on the passenger side of the head and undid that while it was running and it started coming out. or is synthetic 30w just too thick? With these issues would it be safe to run the car for longer periods? aka warm up? or will i fry the bearings? there is some noise coming from the oil pump region, or harmonic balancer. hard to tell

That's is definitely high, does it go down as the car/oil warms?

_________________
Thom
1991 GVR4 1025/2000 (PTE 1200's, 16g, DSMLink v3, gm-maf, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's, EVO VIII Wheels)
1992 GVR4 866/1000 (getting everything from above)

replaced the valve and it came in at 20. let it warm up and hooked up all the original wiring and left the gauge hooked up and let it warm up to operating temps. gauge was reading normal, about 35-40 at idle and would increase if you revved the engine. Although the oil light still pops on inside, and i dont know why. Is there a low oil sensor? I cant find any kind of oil sensor in the wiring diagrams that i have. I disconnected the yellow wire that goes to the pressure sensor and the light inside went out right away. and the gauge started reading about 20-30 depending, not as steady.

It does seem like there is lots more oil up in the head now, when i take off the oil fill cap and look in i can see it flowing and slightly foamy. It also sounds a little better, not much but a little.

That seems much better, but I know my CSM with the 4g63t is about 12-15 @ idle (hot), cold @ 70 running 15w40 Rotella. The idle pressure seems a little high, but not sure what it should be for the 1.5l. At least you shouldn't spin a bearing now. That oil in the bearings does more than lube the bearings, they have to wick away heat too.

_________________
Thom
1991 GVR4 1025/2000 (PTE 1200's, 16g, DSMLink v3, gm-maf, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's, EVO VIII Wheels)
1992 GVR4 866/1000 (getting everything from above)

yeah i feel much better about letting it run a bit now, still worried about the idiot light for the oil. Its not the check engine but the oil light. Is the power steering pump and the oil pressure sensor on the same loop? Cause I can find a wiring diagram for the power steering oil pump, as they call it. I guess I just want to make sure that the light is either on for a reason or just miswired. It didnt do this before the rebuild though so I dont know. (but as I think about it I dont think the wire was hooked up.) I will be doing some more research, any help or suggestions are welcome. Thanks!

got a new sensor in it and it is reading maybe 20 at cold startup and then drops to 0. If you rev it a little it goes up and then drops back to maybe 10 max. So out with that pump in with another! and we are supposed to get another 8" of snow in the next couple of days, yay. I will keep you updated and maybe post some pics. Thanks for the help guys!

Good idea, sounds like the pump is done.

_________________
Thom
1991 GVR4 1025/2000 (PTE 1200's, 16g, DSMLink v3, gm-maf, eagle/ross, .020 over, 272's, EVO VIII Wheels)
1992 GVR4 866/1000 (getting everything from above)