4g61t.org

I'm pretty sure the single wire is for the sender to the gauge and the 2 wire is the sensor you need to be worried about.

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2006 Pontiac Vibe 1.8L 1ZZFE 132HP
1997 Honda Civic EX Coupe 1.8L DOHC TURBO
Conner 6/23/09 8 lbs 3 ozs 20.5 inches
Caleb 3/17/12 8 lbs 15 ozs 20 inches

That is correct. And yes mine was bad enough to set off a CEL and gave me a code. I didn't mess with the maf, I replaced what the ecu told me was messed up and that fixed it.

They don't always set off a CEL either. Telltale sign (besides being hard to start) is that it's dumping gas into the motor and you can smell it in the exhaust. The two prong is the one you want, they're about $18+shipping on rockauto or $35 at autozone.

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Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd

Just hooked up the 4G37 ECU and the car runs alot better than it did before. Not to mention that it actually starts, and quickly at that. It also no longer has a very lumpy idle that usually caused the car to die when not revving.

Tomorrow, the MAF and injectors. And then the TB later when I have the time to dremel the plenum.

Got a new coolant temp sensor. Starts now like it should. However, it's got a peculiar miss. Likely needs a cap/rotor/plugs/wires now. Oh, to only have a friggen carb.

Back to square one. It started this morning (30 deg temps). Ran for all of 10 secs, idled down and died. Won't start now. I didn't have time to check codes, but it would appear my "fix" with the coolant sensor was merely random luck for it to work last night.

Does the tank have to be pulled to get to the fuel pump?

Yes. It's 4 nuts that hold it on though I doubt it's your fuel pump. Can you keep it alive by hitting the gas?

_________________
Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd

Yes/no. Sometimes. Sometimes not.

I've convinced myself it's not the pump tonight or fuel system. I tried the car again, ran/started after I unplugged the MAF. Plug it back in, it's missing and won't hardly idle. Prior to unplugging the MAF, no codes.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't that mean it's the MAF? If not, what else could it be?

I guess this weekend, I'm going again, to try a handful of ECU's and MAF's to see if I can get this licked. I'm just suprised that a MAF I put on the car, ran/started another CSM I have fine, but didn't make a difference on this car.

Didn't mean to horn in on the OP's thread, but given I'm exhibiting similiar conditions, I figure all could learn from it.

OK, I've now tried 3 ECU's in the car. The origional, and two others. The second two came out of two different cars and ran perfect. The ECU's all three exhibit the same condition in the problem car. Upon plugging them in and the MAF, the car won't start and idles like it's running rich after I get it started with the MAF unplugged and unplug it.

I've done the same swaps with the MAF. Although, I'm going to try them again. Same result, MAF unplugged it runs OK, plugged in, runs bad. I measured 2 of the MAF air temp sensors and they checked out.

Coolant temp sensor plugged in or not, produces no noticable change. Only checked it when the engine was already hot.

No CEL or thrown codes at any time until I pull the MAF plug and then, of course, a code(s) for that.

I'm going to start ohming sensors on the throttlebody and MAF.