2" is too low. 1.5" max drop before the rear axle shunts over to the side and is no longer exactly in the middle of the rear "track" where it is supposed to be.
Remember the rear axle moves left to right to left, in an arc with partial side to side as it bottoms and tops out in terms of travel. If you sit lower than 1.5" from stock, the rear axle
will be sitting too far to the right and the front suspension angles will suffer. Not to mention that your cv axle joints may not like it much if they have worn at stock ride height for years and many many miles.
Best recommendation is stock ride height or a little lower, on coilover type suspension. See my build thread for details, as that is your most cost effective route (long term) , without having to replace suspension components that likely will wear out annually, if you otherwise lowered the car with stiffer springs and used OEM style KYB ExcelG/GR2's. Konis are hard to find right now, but Coltixim had some made to his spec, valved a little stiffer than stock replacements, and matched to his intended lowering coils. Search his name and + Koni, and you will find the thread.
Get a stiffer sidewall tire like the 205/50 R15" Dunlop Direzza DZ102 (quite inexpensive) and this will solve most of the issues with tire sidewalls rolling over in corners. They are quite grippy and are miles ahead of stock touring type tires. Can't speak for them in the rain, as of yet, but they have large water type grooves. Grab a set of lightweight Galant wagon wheels, and they will clear any entry level DSM brake upgrade until you get into fixed calipers and such. Best bang for the buck and low cost too. See Galant wheels go pretty cheap, and easy enough to blast and restore should you choose to, or just plastic dip them in the mean time.