It looks to me like you could just cut and grind the hubs down while they're still on the car until you have enough clearance to fit the GVR4 rotors. This way you won't have to bother with the bearings.

Parts + Techniques

T/E/L + Galant VR4 (?) rotors 276mm vented 4 bolt
1989-92 CSM/Lancer hubs regardless of turbo or non turbo need to be machined down at the hub center ring
Disassemble wheel bearings with press or like technique
T/E/L (?), Diamante, or VR4 twin pot calipers with 6mm spacers
Reuse all factory bolts in this process, or need for upgrades (see below)?

Engineering point of view

Longer wheel studs have enough thread depth in the stock lug nuts now?

Will factory 14" wheels clear this new set of calipers and rotors, or would 15" be the new minimum for T/E/L with twin pots setups?

Does this new rotor position and subsequent matching position of the calipers and brackets mean that the whole aligned assembly is being moved 6mm outboard and the caliper is not physically moved 6mm outboard without the bracket coming forward too? <- Just for reference because I'm pretty sure that 6mm would leave only one brake pad to work with!

Is it worth it, to bolt (using the old hub to disc bolts) the new rotors to the hubs from the outside?
Would you recommend new hardware when doing this?

Because of the aforementioned question, will you have to drill 4 new holes in the rotor to accomodate bolting the rotors to the hub in this new fashion (from the outside of the hub surface)?

This will help clear up any issues rather nicely.
Don't be afraid to correct me on anything here, because when it comes to brakes, you cannot take a chance and I do not pretend to know it all. You are just one pedal stomp away from delivering your car into the back of another if things aren't designed properly to work fully in unison. Don't get me wrong, I'm absolutely not criticising t04garret, this is the opposite, as I am looking out for people that do not work around brakes all the time, and, that want 100% background on what they are indeed going to be bolting onto their car.

I should say that I was told when I replaced my bearings that it was not the pressing together of the bearings and seals that will determine the squeeze on everything, but rather the axle nut pulling the axle cup inwards is what performs the pre/final loading of the bearings.

t04garrett, is there anything more you want to add to this thread before it gets posted to the archives?

Tim, are you saying that when replacing the bearings, they should be drawn back togather with the axle nuts or they should be completely pressed together and the axle nut will hold the loading on then after the nuts are torqued?

Berserko wrote:
Elantra was my next best choice 4:1 same as a turbo colt. Almost identical M/C to a tubo colt only the Elantra has a line shooting from the top at the front if you take the line with the MC then your fine. Now that I had the MC/Booster I thought it was a plug in ad go well it was sort of. It bolted in fine heres were the problems began. I notice the brake pedal even at the top of its stroke had barely any clearence to the floor you could only push the brakes 1.5" until it was laying on the floor. I thought I had screwed up again I did but it wan'y anything terminal on the back of the colt brake booster there was about a .5" of a spacer on the Elantra it has a spacer too but it was about 1.25" and it move the booster so far forward it have a really low pedal. I swapped spacer betwen the colt and Elantra Booster and the pedal came back to the right place things were good. The only other mod needed for this is to hack the wiring harness to accept the fluid level sensor for the elantra M/C infortunately you cannot swap bottle due to design differences in the M/C other than what I have mentioned the swap was a success hopefully it will be worth while after I get my project finished.