Just to follow up a bit on this...
Tools you need:
-Slide Hammer with mounting flange (you can rent one at Autozone)
-32 mm socket
-Dead blow hammer
-misc metric sockets
1) As with any rotor replacement, you need to remove the caliper bracket assembly. I'm making the assumption people on this forum already know how to do this.
2) Remove the cotter pin on the 32 mm axle nut and remove the axle nut.
3) Attach the slide hammer flange to the outer hub/rotor assembly (bolt the flange on the wheel studs). Hold the base of the slide with one hand and slam the slide hammer away from the car. After a few good whacks, the rotor/hub assembly will fall out. There is the wheel bearing exposed on the outer hub, so be careful!
4) There are 4 bolt/nut assemblies holding the rotor to the hub. Since you are replacing the rotor, I find it best to clamp the rotor in a bench vise as this point. Remove the 4 bolt/nut assemblies and lightly tap the hub from the rotor.
5) Reverse #4 to install new rotor.
6) Repack wheel bearing.
7) Loosely install hub/rotor assembly back onto the inner-hub.
Pull the axel through and loosely install the axle nut. Lightly twist the axle nut with the 32 mm socket (do not apply to much torque).
9) with the socket still on the nut, drive the hub/rotor assembly into the inner hub with a dead blow hammer. Strike the socket with the dead blow a few times, then turn the nut on the distance you have moved the rotor. Progressively increase the strike strength until you are going ape $h!t on it and the rotor/hub will not move inward anymore.
10) Lightly torque the axle nut.
11) install wheel without the hub cap on
12) Torque the axle nut to spec.
13) Take wheel off and install brake caliper and pads.